Fashionista

Thursday September 23rd, 2010

Clements Ribeiro’s Refreshing Prints
Reviews

Clements Ribeiro’s Refreshing Prints

LONDON–Through a scrim we could see the models for Clements Ribeiro’s S/S 11 show assembling–an array of reedy girls in shifts and A4 paper hats. We knew it was time to begin when the lights dimmed and a spotlight threw models’ silhouettes onto the thin muslin screen, creating what was surely one of the week’s most quietly lovely images.

From that beautiful beginning came a parade of palette-cleansing clothes, a fashion sorbet of ladylike dresses in gorgeous original prints. First down the catwalk was a purple and green hydrangea-print shift, followed by a shirt with boughs of jasmine in white on a red background. This same print in a skirt looked perfect when paired with a fine gauge Breton-striped sweater.

Best of all, though, was a nipped-waist v-neck dress with browns, peaches, aubergines and lemon curd tones applied to those same hydrangeas, prompting instant covetousness and some magical budgetary thinking on my part.

When the print disappeared, ensembles briefly veered into less interesting territory. An off-the-shoulder navy blue embossed silk dress with an obi waist tie and wide sleeves would have been stronger without the large paillette flowers (sequins fell off of other heavily embellished garments). But a navy cardigan the same length as a short lace dress in the same color read as flirty and young.

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Published at 10:30 AM
Ashish Plays Cowboys and Indians For Spring 2011
Reviews

Ashish Plays Cowboys and Indians For Spring 2011

LONDON–Once the last piece of mirrorball confetti hit the floor at Burberry, showgoers blinked their way into the sunlight smiling. It seemed to many that the crescendo of the week would also be a good place to end LFW—but anyone who continued down the show roster to Ashish was in for a treat.

If Giles flew the flag for kitsch Britannia with his show, Ashish answered with a Gaga-‘n-Beyonce “Telephone”-video vision of the glitzy American West. The opening salvo of, “Don’t f**k with me, fellas!” set the tone, telling us to expect to meet a good-time gun-slinger of a gal—someone ready to ride anywhere in her sequin-emblazoned bandanna top.

With the cow-print blazers, oversized paisley basketball shorts and flame-grilled motifs ALL in sequins, as well as boots hand-painted with cacti, horseshoes and McDonald’s and Coca-Cola branding; and even tall Native American headdresses, the show was wild, but that was the point. Ashish always puts on a fun show—the models looked like they were having a great time, and front rowers’ feet didn’t stop bouncing to the tunes through the entire show.

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Published at 9:00 AM

Wednesday September 22nd, 2010

Burberry Goes Biker For Spring 2011
Fall 2010 Paris

Burberry Goes Biker For Spring 2011

Burberry Prorsum Cheat Sheet:

  • Patent belts–leather accents

  • Ruched satin
  • Mint green
  • Teal
  • Real biker jackets
  • Bondage
  • Ruched leather jackets
  • Leather motocross dress
  • Studs are here to stay

LONDON–So yeah. You may have seen a bunch of models fall on the Burberry Prorsum catwalk yesterday afternoon. The shoes, spikey F*ck Me booties, looked terribly, terribly uncomfortable, and I could almost feel the models’ pain emanating from the runway.

But they looked as good as they did torturous.

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Published at 8:00 AM

Tuesday September 21st, 2010

Giles Spring 2011: Sparkly Sneakers and Extreme Silhouettes
Reviews

Giles Spring 2011: Sparkly Sneakers and Extreme Silhouettes

LONDON–Giles Deacon, much like his friends Katie Grand and Luella Bartley, is just innately cool. The East London space in which he showed his Spring 2011 collection last night–an old brick warehouse of sorts with low ceilings–was just cool. And the clothes he showed–some beautiful, some beautifully off kilter–were also, well, cool.

Aggy Deyn opened with a Mohawk and a pair of pastel sneakers (or trainers, as the Brits call them) encrusted in Swarovski crystals. (Giles is yet another designer supported by Swarovski.) Other notable models included Alessandra Ambrosio, Jessica Stam, Coco Rocha, Ashley Smith and footballer WAG Abbey Clancy–who is apparently three months pregnant and in the midst of a cheating scandal. Famous Brit Kelly Brook–I really have no idea what she actually does–was also there.

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Published at 11:00 AM
Erdem’s Breathless Beauty
Reviews

Erdem’s Breathless Beauty

LONDON–This season, celebrated designer Erdem Moralioglu put out yet another garden-inspired collection, this one with a focus on primary colors: blue, red, and yellow. The setting was, appropriately, a garden square in Central London, just off Tottenham Court Road.

Moralioglu designs with an early 20th century lady in mind, but his pieces are light enough in weight to come off as modern.

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Published at 10:00 AM
Mark Fast Spring 2011: Fringe Fest
Reviews

Mark Fast Spring 2011: Fringe Fest

Fringe has played a big role at the London shows, and knitwear king Mark Fast got in on the fun for Spring 2011.

The Canadian born designer, whose body-con spider web dresses have made quite the impression on the fashion industry, only tweaked his signature look slightly for spring, adding in some extravagant fringe–made from horsehair?–more than a few crystals–provided by Swarovski, natch–and a bit of patent leather thrown in for good measure.

Was it revolutionary? Certainly not. But Fast is establishing a signature look. For a young designer, sometimes that’s more important than shocking the audience each season.

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Published at 8:00 AM

Monday September 20th, 2010

Shop London Fashion Week’s Estethica Designers For the First Time on YOOX

Shop London Fashion Week’s Estethica Designers For the First Time on YOOX

Seven years ago, The British Fashion Council set out on a mission to make fashion just a little bit more ecofriendly. In order to do so, they established Estethica–an exhibition of innovative designers committed to working sustainably.

After seven years of success at London Fashion Week, Estethica and the BFC have decided to make the eco sustainable design exhibition available to consumers world wide through a collaboration with ecommerce site YOOX.com. To coincide with this week’s London Fashion Week, YOOX created an online retail space specifically for a selection of Estethica designers called Yooxygen.

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Published at 1:00 PM