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How to Make It in Fashion: June 21, Dream Hotel Downtown, New York

Thursday October 7th, 2010

Miu Miu Spring 2011: The Starry Finale
Reviews

Miu Miu Spring 2011: The Starry Finale

PARIS–It was the end of it all. And it was good.

Miu Miu finished off Paris Fashion Week and global Fashion Month, and was the last show I’ll see until February. (Unless, of course, some designers get extravagant for Pre-Fall….)

It was young (see the starry prints and popsicle colors) it was forward (consider the boxy cut of the leather jackets) and it was pretty (appreciate the red satin dress). There was some ’70s, some ’40s. But above all, there was modernity.

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Published at 3:00 PM
Rumor Mill: Stefano Pilati is Out at YSL?

Rumor Mill: Stefano Pilati is Out at YSL?

Rumors swirl season upon season that Stefano Pilati is done at Yves Saint Laurent. Pilati replaced Tom Ford in the mid-aughts, and while some of his collections have been lauded, others have been slammed. What’s more, Pilati is known for being a pain-in-the-rear. He’s a party boy, and he doesn’t like playing nice.

Now the New York Post, via Fashion Wire Daily, reports that Spring 2011 might really, truly, be the end of the road for Pilati. But the collection was undeniably strong. And the shoes will certainly be a best-seller. So we think he still has more time.

However, if Pilati is leaving, who will succeed him?

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Published at 1:00 PM
Louis Vuitton Spring 2011: Cheetahs and Tigers and Pandas, Oh My!
Reviews

Louis Vuitton Spring 2011: Cheetahs and Tigers and Pandas, Oh My!

Louis Vuitton S 2011 Cheat Sheet:

  • Sequins.

  • Fringe.
  • Chinoise.
  • The Orient.
  • Animal prints.
  • The rainbow.
  • More satin.
  • 1970s.
  • Black marble.

PARIS–Another thing about Marc Jacobs: No season is the same. Sure, there are underlying themes that may move from spring to fall, or fall to spring, but in general, you have no idea what to expect when the first model steps onto the runway.

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Published at 10:00 AM

Wednesday October 6th, 2010

Hussein Chalayan Spring 2011: When Film and Fashion Work
Reviews

Hussein Chalayan Spring 2011: When Film and Fashion Work

Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–“I was really intrigued by this period of Japanese history called Sakoku. It was during the two centuries in the Edo period when the shogun closed the country to outsiders. This isolation enhances the notion of abstraction. The collection was not inspired or based on Japanese clothing, rather I was fascinated by the idea of abstract isolationism. These are silhouettes I have worked on for a long time,” designer Hussein Chalayan said after showing the 12 minutes film he made for his spring collection, titled “Sakoku.”

Mr. Chalayan has directed several films over the last decade, even a conceptual film with little clothes for Tribe Art Commission in late 2003 that was sponsored by the Honda Formula Racing team. That film featured an old female racer going through London and Istanbul in an aerodynamic pod.

Screened against the white walls of a small art gallery tucked away in the 3rd arrondissement, the color film was shot against a black background. A single spotlight shone on model Juju, who wore the 37 looks in various poses: walking, standing, coming in and out of frames. At one point, three ninjas played with the silk pieces attached to her floral bustier dress.

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Published at 7:00 PM
Last Night’s Parties: V, Grazia, and 10 Took Us Dancing
Fashion Week Parties

Last Night’s Parties: V, Grazia, and 10 Took Us Dancing

PARIS–Look at the cult around Vogue or Purple: Magazines today are institutions, with their own admirers and followers. No wonder they’re also becoming the life and soul of Parisian nightlife. Increasingly, brands are pairing up with hip publications to ensure a successful event.

One day before the end of Paris Fashion Week, we put on our blue suede shoes and went out, wined and dined by various magazines.

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Published at 5:59 PM
Valentino Spring 2011: Tied Too Closely To Tradition?
Reviews

Valentino Spring 2011: Tied Too Closely To Tradition?

Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–In January 2009 at the historic lecture hall of the Sorbonne, newly-anointed designers Pier Paolo Piccoli and Maria Grazia Chuiri, personal protégés of Mr. Valentino, presented their spring Haute Couture collection. It was virtually immersed in the house codes and heritage, with little indication of their own voices. The road that Mr. Piccoli and Ms. Grazia Chuiri have traveled since at Valentino includes figuring out how to inject their own visions–drawn from their own experiences and observations–into clothes for a new generation. One of the most difficult jobs in fashion today is working at a once venerable institution currently in need of transformation.

In a quiet showing at the Halle Freyssinet–where the industrial depot was momentarily outfitted with camel colored cotton benches–the designers clearly embraced the foundations of Valentino.

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Published at 1:15 PM
Alexander McQueen Spring 2011: Sarah Burton is Good for Business
Reviews

Alexander McQueen Spring 2011: Sarah Burton is Good for Business

PARIS–My clearest image of Alexander McQueen, the brand, is the designer’s Spring 2010 runway show, which I attended last fall in Paris on behalf of my former employer. I think I sat 3rd or 4th row–I still have blurry images of those hoof heels on my iPhone. It was the last proper show McQueen would live to see, and it was spectacular. Unearthly, Godly, serpentine: he offered us the most distinct digital prints, the most magnificently sculpted bodices.

McQueen’s final collection, which debuted last March, was more ornate. There were lots of reds and golds with headpieces and plenty of layers of fabric. As someone who grew up attending Russian Orthodox church services, there was something about the collection that reminded me of what the religion’s strictest priests wear every day.

This season, with McQueen’s tragic passing in February 2010, his second-in-command Sarah Burton has taken over.

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Published at 6:00 AM
Givenchy Spring 2011: Did Riccardo Tisci Live Up to His Last Couture Collection?
Reviews

Givenchy Spring 2011: Did Riccardo Tisci Live Up to His Last Couture Collection?

Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–What is the designer Riccardo Tisci’s mission at Givenchy? Was he hired to create an entirely new brand, or does he have to incorporate some of the house’s heritage into his thinking? Should his collections have something to reminisce the past? Or is it his prime directive simply to follow his instincts and make fashionable clothes destined for those looking for a chic outfit and great shoes?

In the five years since he took over the creative helm at Givenchy, I think it’s clear that Mr, Tisci is choosing to make it an ultra chic fashion brand, one that is respected among high society. And more importantly, a brand that also has street credibility. It’s critical for the designer to appeal to both ends of the spectrum. Too aristocratic and he will be accused of succumbing to the bourgeoisie Too street and they will say he doesn’t understand or fit into a French high fashion house.

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Published at 5:04 AM

Tuesday October 5th, 2010

Caroline Seikaly Spring 2011: Pretty Pastels
Reviews

Caroline Seikaly Spring 2011: Pretty Pastels

PARIS–Caroline Seikaly has quite an interesting background. She studied at RISD, interned with Isaac Mizrahi, then moved to Paris to work with Christian Lacroix. In 1999, she began a seven-year-long career with Karl Lagerfeld.

After leaving Lagerfeld, Seikaly launched her eponymous collection. The first piece she designed was her own wedding dress.

Her Spring 2011 collection, which I saw yesterday in an airy studio at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, consists of mostly short, pastel cocktail frocks.

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Published at 5:00 PM
YSL Spring 2011: Flamenco Season
Reviews

YSL Spring 2011: Flamenco Season

PARIS–Stefano Pilati’s reign at Yves Saint Laurent can’t be described as anything else but a roller coaster. Sometimes he’s lauded, at other times mocked.

In a season when other designers have been inspired by his master’s Le Smoking suit, safari jackets, and other ’70s styles, Pilati looked to the archives with flamenco dresses and perfect pants.

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Published at 1:30 PM
Chloe Spring 2011: Ballerina-Chic
Reviews

Chloe Spring 2011: Ballerina-Chic

PARIS–Much like her predecessors, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, Chloe‘s Hannah MacGibbon designs for a specific woman. She’s ageless, but youthful. She’s also impeccably groomed.

And she loves classic silhouettes with a modern edge. As a follow up to last season’s smash hit camel collection, MacGibbon sent out a ballerina-inspired collection: white wrap dresses, taupe body suits paired with pants in the same tone, and a brick red dress coat that added the pop of color spring collections need.

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Published at 1:00 PM