Marni Fall 2013: A Fur-For-All
Milan fashion week is turning into one big fur-for-all. Marni’s expertly-tailored, understated fall 2013 collection was, like Fendi’s, punctuated with statement-making fur.
Milan fashion week is turning into one big fur-for-all. Marni’s expertly-tailored, understated fall 2013 collection was, like Fendi’s, punctuated with statement-making fur.
After a few seasons of sleek, sexy minimalism, Emilio Pucci designer Peter Dundas went back to the brand’s hippie roots for Fall 2013, showing a collection made for a ’60s rock band groupie (paging Penny Lane!).
Understated is not normally a word you used to describe Roberto Cavalli–but this season, that’s exactly the descriptor that comes to mind. In a relative way of speaking anyway. The designer, known for his extravagant, over-the-top luxe styles, showed a collection with nary a leopard or tiger print in sight.
Jil Sander, who returned to her eponymous label only a season ago, has certainly gotten back into the swing of things. For fall 2013, she showed a beautifully-made, cohesive collection, that didn’t even go near the kind of frills, bells and whistles other designers might employ. It was the kind of collection one might expect from the so-called queen of minimalism.
But minimalism doesn’t mean boring–there were certainly thrills without the frills in this collection.
Subtle, Versace is not.
Last night I made my way into Versace’s show space on Via Gesu–which is usually “mood” lit so dimly that I have to watch my every step–to find a stark-white, insanely brightly lit room, arranged in a sort of maze-like structure, with the audience seated in the center. Oh, and Janet Jackson was there.
Ciao bellas! Now that Milan is in full swing, check out some of our favorite looks. The European shows never disappoint beauty-wise, and this season is no exception so far. From the Fendi fur-hawks to Prada‘s drenched damsels, click through to see what’s going on backstage in Italy this week.
The Sportmax woman can be informal or casual–but she’s always polished: A fact which the brand’s fall 2013 collection demonstrated perfectly.
Georgia May Jagger may have closed the Just Cavalli show, but it’s her famous dad Mick who inspired the spirit of the collection, which was rock n’ roll to its core.
You never know what you’re going to get with Miuccia Prada. I mean this is the woman who made plain nylon bags–and massive Geisha-inspired platforms–a thing. Prada is the rare designer who can dart between over-the-top editorial-bait (see: Spring 2013, Spring 2010), and understated, quiet luxury without ever seeming like she’s lost her way. For fall 2013, she went with the latter: A moody, yet surprisingly wearable, collection.
Everything from the slightly unsettling shadow play moving on the walls–a cat’s tail swishing, fans slowly turning, and a woman posing as if for a mirror–to the suspenseful music set the tone for darkly cinematic collection.
Fendi seemed to want to make a point this season about how much fur could be used in one collection and on how many items. Each show-goer was given a folder containing several of Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches–one of which announced, “Fendi is Fur; Fur is Fendi.” Arrows pointed out where on the model there was fur, and, of course, there was so much of it that the page was covered with them.
Maybe designers Silvia Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld wanted to make their pro-fur stance clear, in light of PETA’s constant badgering of the house. Or maybe, in a season where almost every designer is showing some clever take on fur, they wanted to lay claim to it: Begun as a furrier and leather goods brand in 1925, the Italian fashion label has had plenty of time to perfect their fur craft.
When I woke up this morning and hit my Twitter feed (sadly, the second thing I do after making coffee), people in Milan were abuzz about Karl Lagerfeld’s fur-heavy fall Fendi show. Even the sunglasses and shoes were furry! But what caught my attention were the fur faux-hawks–which I’m now dubbing “fur-hawks.”
Teenage angst met ladylike polish at the No. 21 show, designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua.