Adam Lippes is back at the helm of his namesake brand. The designer has bought back his name and intellectual property rights from brand marketing firm Kellwood, WWD is reporting. While terms of the deal were not disclosed, Lippes also bought himself out of a non compete clause, meaning that the designer could partner with another company in the future.
Here’s a recipe for commercial success:
Start by thinking about your actual, real life customer. Add a dash of niche, specific inspiration, but don’t get too heavy handed. Split the vision up into separates. Lather, rinse, repeat.
For fall, Adam Lippes did just that, churning out yet another ADAM collection that was “wearable” in only the way that fashion people say it, as if surprised when clothes are actually accessible.
“The starting point in designing every collection is the woman who wears my clothes,” Lippes’ show notes explained. Past that, his inspiration was a recent trip to the National Museum of the American Indian. But sticking to the recipe, Lippes added just the right dash of native, not a dousing.
While perusing Adam’s latest collection, someone noticed the striking similarity between this tunic and a Karen Walker piece from…two years ago. They’re pretty much identical–the flower shape in the lace is slightly different (Walker’s is prettier), but everything else – the color, the silhouette, the buttons, the tiers in the middle, the collar–is exactly the same. This doesn’t look good, Mr. Lippes.
Adam Lippes knows a thing or two about pretty; he was, after all, global creative director at Oscar de la Renta for seven years.
But while Lippes’ own adam+eve line emerged in 2004 as a bank of basics, since then, not only has the name changed, but so too has its aesthetic.
In the past couple seasons, ADAM has gone back to pretty. Like, really pretty.
Perhaps it’s just another case of this season’s sartorial shift from grandeur and drama back towards minimalism and femininity. But whatever the cause for the slant towards sophistication, one thing’s for sure: Lippes is more than well trained for it.
Another question the Fashionista team is often asked, mostly by design students: “What does it take to launch my own label?”
Well, it takes a lot of hard work, talent, and yes…money.
The big problem: There aren’t a ton of investors willing to put down cash on a new designer. As one serial investor once explained to me, “Fashion is a risky business. But it’s not as sexy as film. Sometimes, people are lured by the glamor, but in general, the return on investment is so unlikely, most aren’t willing to take the risk.” In the movies, on the other hand, investors will still probably get to hang out with the star–even if the film doesn’t make any real bank.
So what’s a young designer to do? Working for a bigger label is always an option. Adam Lippes worked at Polo Ralph Lauren for years before launching his own label. Chris Benz worked at J.Crew. Richard Chai worked at Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan.
Loans from friends and family always help, but we understand that’s not viable for most.
Another way to do it? Get one of the few investors who do spend money on younger brands to notice you. Now, we’re not advocating knocking down these people’s doors. And you’re probably going to have to come up with your own money to establish the company initially. But doing good work and networking should get you closer to your goal. Here are 10 companies/people known for investing in younger brands.
I spent last night at Adam Lippes‘ fabulous penthouse apartment in Greenwich Village.
The occasion? We (and when I say we, I mean myself plus a very smart-looking crowd, including Meredith Melling Burke, lovely in an pleated pumpkin-colored maxi dress) were invited to celebrate Lippes’ t-shirt collaboration with four young artists selected by the Whitney–Matthew Brannon, EV Day, Ellen Harvey and Phoebe Washburn. The tees, $48-$68, will go on sale this Thursday at noon on Gilt.com.
On the Street: Ruby’s shearling jacket is so perfect, and we also have a huge crush on this blog. {Vanessa Jackman} About the Boys: The Moment dissects four womenswear designers who’ve made the jump to men’s: Lars Nilsson, Roland Mouret, Matthew Williamson and Maria Cornejo. {The Moment} Q&A: Fashion Indie talks with designer Adam Lippes Read more →
Adam Lippes found inspiration in a painting of a parachute jumper for his fall collection — it’s day four of Fashion Week, and we could use a parachute. His floating hem skirts billowed like clouds behind the models; it was a brilliant interpretation that gave the garments full movement. Kate loved the jackets, a long Read more →
The first solid details on the tentatively titled MAC at Milk shows we’ve been talking about since the cosmetics company decided to end its partnership with IMG leaving Maybelline to jump in as the official makeup sponsor at Bryant Park. And the initial list of designers signed on for events at Milk Studios is very, Read more →
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