More drama over the Black Swan costumes: the film wasn’t even nominated for an Oscar for costume design. Nods went to Alice in Wonderland, I Am Love, The King’s Speech, The Tempest, and True Grit.

We already knew Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters wouldn’t see any glory for their beautifully twisted and painstakingly made ballet costumes for Black Swan–despite the buzz that their names had garnered for the film. The Mulleavy sisters weren’t members of the Costume Design Guild when they worked on the film and were reportedly “naive” about movie credits. Kate and Laura Mulleavy ended up receiving a backend credit while Amy Westcott, who worked with director Darren Aronofsky on The Wrestler, received the front credit as costume designer, making Westcott the only one eligible for an Oscar. In an interview with Deadline, Westcott explained, “It was Natalie who recommended Rodarte. It was important to her and Darren asked me if it was OK. I met with Laura and Kate Mulleavy and I saw their feathered Vulture collection (I think it was Spring 2010). It seemed very appropriate.”

But now that whole controversy over Rodarte’s ineligibility for Oscar costume credit is moot. And it comes as a bit of a shock that the film was completely left off the list to be considered. Black Swan had already picked up best costume nominations from the Critics’ Choice Awards, Bafta and the Costume Designers’ Guild.

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Part of the anticipation leading up to Black Swan‘s release, at least in the fashion world, had to do with the fact that Rodarte had designed the ballet costumes. The Mulleavy sisters created 40 costumes for the Darren Aronofsky thriller, including outfitting the entire ballet corps. So it follows that Rodarte has been the bold faced name associated with Black Swan‘s beautifully twisted costumes.

But with awards season in full swing, you won’t see Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s names next to the nominations for Best Costume Design (Black Swan has already received a best costume nom from the Critics Choice Awards and will likely get an Oscar nomination). Amy Westcott will take the credit, as she received the “front credit” as costume designer for the film while the Mulleavy sisters only receive a backend credit.

In The Hollywood Reporter, Merle Ginsberg notes there’s “a long history of fashion designers creating costumes for stars above and beyond what a film’s costume designer does–and not getting the credit they crave.” The most famous example of this, Ginsberg points out, is Edith Head winning the Oscar for Sabrina when Givenchy outfitted Hepburn for the film.

In the case of Rodarte for Black Swan, a source told THR that the Mulleavy’s were “naive about movies,” meaning they didn’t negotiate credits in their initial deal, and weren’t members of the the Costume Design Guild when they worked on the film (they are now).

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