Fashionista

How to Make It in Fashion: June 21, Dream Hotel Downtown, New York

Wednesday March 2nd, 2011

Racked Dealfeed: End of Barneys Warehouse Sale, Camilla Skovgaard, Tommy Hilfiger, and More
Sales

Racked Dealfeed: End of Barneys Warehouse Sale, Camilla Skovgaard, Tommy Hilfiger, and More

Barneys Warehouse Sale
Deal: 50% to 75% off clothing, shoes, accessories, and housewares
When/Where: Thursday, February 17 through Sunday, March 6. Thurs, Feb 17 8am—9pm, Mon—Fri 10am—9pm, Sat—Sun 10am—7pm. 225 W. 17th St between Seventh and Eighth Aves (no phone)
Link: www.barneys.com

L’Effrontée
Deal: Up to 70% off fall accessories from labels like Camilla Skovgaard, Linda Farrow, and Rag & Bone
When/Where: Through Monday, March 7. Mon—Sat noon—8pm, Sun noon—7pm. 181 Mott St between Kenmare and Broome Sts (646-410-2197)
Link: www.leffrontee.com

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Published at 5:45 PM

Wednesday February 9th, 2011

Black & White & Not-Red All Over: Barneys New York Reveals Its Spring Campaign
Campaigns

Black & White & Not-Red All Over: Barneys New York Reveals Its Spring Campaign

This morning may have brought yet another resignation of a longtime Barneys employee–this time it was Michael Celestino, who ran store operations for 20 years–but the changes aren’t just happening internally.

The Madison Avenue flagship recently revealed new awnings–black lattice instead of red cloth–and everything red has been removed from the store, replaced by black and white.

Barneys’ Spring 2011 campaign–”Backstage”–also captures the store’s new slick black and white theme. The images were taken behind the scenes at New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks by the likes of Nan Goldin, Juergen Teller, and Raymond Meyer. The spread reminds us of New York Look–the mag’s brilliant/defunct biannual publication.

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Published at 5:00 PM
Carven’s Guillaume Henry Spins Gold Out of Polyester
Shopping

Carven’s Guillaume Henry Spins Gold Out of Polyester

Guillaume Henry, the handsome designer behind the revival of French couture house Carven, just ended a whirlwind trunk show tour of the US, visiting Barneys New York locations in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, and yesterday afternoon, the store’s Madison Ave flagship. This was the first time he’s been able to meet his American customers, a rabid fan base that has grown rapidly since the label relaunched at a contemporary price point in Spring 2010. (A quick fashion history lesson: Carven began as a Paris couture house in 1945, known in the 1950s for dressing royals.)

“What’s interesting is that they all wear Carven so differently in each city,” he told Fashionista yesterday. “They all want different things.”

And thus far, Henry’s been able to deliver, with a mix of refined wardrobe basics inspired by 1950s couture, the era in which Carven was initially so popular. “Many of the shapes we use–the cocoon shape, the ballerina–are from that time. But we’ve updated them to look modern,” he says. “Mrs. Carven wanted to be cool, and she was, but what was cool then is different from what is cool now. We want our clothes to be right for now.” So while he’s taken a peek into the archives to understand who the Carven lady was, those looks don’t entirely define who she currently is.

As for how the house is able to bring couture-like garments down to a contemporary price point?

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Published at 10:00 AM

Friday February 4th, 2011

Barneys is No Longer Selling Prada Handbags and Ready-to-Wear
Retail

Barneys is No Longer Selling Prada Handbags and Ready-to-Wear

Forget about fashion directors and window dressers. The biggest news coming out of Barneys since CEO Mark Lee came aboard is that the luxury retailer is dropping Prada handbags and women’s ready-to-wear from its stores. Update: We’ve heard from a source within Barneys that the real reason for the break up is not because of Barneys being unhappy with Prada, but because of a disagreement about leasing. (Prada wanted to lease its space in the store like it does at other department stores; Barneys doesn’t do that.) And that the decision was made before Lee even got to Barneys.

The Prada handbags section will be replaced by Valextra, a handbag line that’s exclusive to Barneys. (We’re sure you’ve heard of it–they’ve been shilling it like crazy for the past couple of years.) The store will still carry Prada men’s ready-to-wear and Prada shoes for both sexes.

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Published at 1:42 PM

Friday January 28th, 2011

Amanda Brooks is the New Fashion Director of Barneys New York
The Business

Amanda Brooks is the New Fashion Director of Barneys New York

After months of speculation, Amanda Brooks has been hired as the new fashion director of Barneys New York. “I have long admired Amanda and her effortless blend of luxury and individual style. Her unique perspective on fashion mirrors what Barneys represents and we feel very fortunate to have her join the team,” said Daniella Vitale, the company’s new chief merchandiser, in a statement. She begins February 7, just in time to sit front row at New York Fashion Week.

While much of our generation knows Brooks as more of a socialite and personal style icon, penning the guide I Love Your Style in 2009, she also has plenty of legit fashion cred. Her most recent position was director of fashion at William Morris, where she worked with Chanel, Tod’s, and American Express on marketing, advertising, and image building. As an independent consultant, she worked with DvF, Tory Burch, and Roger Vivier. She was also at one point the creative director of Hogan, as well as Tuleh. She has also written for top notch publications, such as Vogue and The New York Times.

We’ve always thought of Brooks as more of a Bergdorf girl, so it’ll be interesting to see how she adapts her uptown sensibility to the decidedly downtown Barneys brand.

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Published at 5:02 PM

Monday December 27th, 2010

Wednesday December 22nd, 2010

Barneys Says No One Has Been Offered the Position of Fashion Director
The Business

Barneys Says No One Has Been Offered the Position of Fashion Director

First it was Virginia Smith. Now, Taylor Tomasi Hill. Someone’s been very loose-lipped over at Barneys New York, at least regarding the search for a new fashion director. (Julie Gilhart resigned at the end of last month.)

Now, the luxury department store is trying to quell those rumors. “As announced by Barneys New York on November 29, the search for a new fashion director was launched by Daniella Vitale, Chief Merchant and Executive Vice-President, who joined the company on December 1,” says a Barneys New York spokesperson to Fashionista via email. “Contrary to recent speculative reports, no employment offer has been made as of this date to any person for the fashion director position.”

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Published at 6:25 PM

Thursday December 2nd, 2010

Virginia Smith to Barneys?

Virginia Smith to Barneys?

Barneys New York CEO Mark Lee wants a fashion director after all.

Following Monday’s news that store veteran Julie Gilhart would be leaving the company, WWD reports that Lee is said to be searching for a fashion director. His two top candidates? Lane Crawford’s Sarah Rutson and Vogue‘s Virginia Smith.

Both choices makes sense, Rutson more so. But the woman who transformed Lane Crawford into a serious fashion player has been living in Hong Kong for the 15 years. Will she want to transplant herself to New York?

Smith, who is the fashion market/accessories director at Vogue, might not have a retail background, but she certainly has the eye Lee is looking for. While Barneys needs to maintain its edge, it also needs to offer a broader range of product. Remember, Barneys’ main problem–from an investor’s standpoint–is that it’s not selling enough clothes.

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Published at 11:00 AM

Monday November 29th, 2010

Julie Gilhart Out at Barneys
The Business

Julie Gilhart Out at Barneys

If Simon Doonan is the face of Barneys New York, then Julie Gilhart has been its voice. But that’s all about to change, as Gilhart is leaving the company, along with Judy Collinson, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of womenswear, WWD reports.

Collinson will be replaced by Daniella Vitale, a Gucci vet and former colleague of newish Barneys CEO Mark Lee. Vitale will serve as chief merchant and executive vice president, overseeing all of women’s and Barneys.com operations.

It might be sad, but it’s not exactly a surprise the Collinson and Gilhart are out.

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Published at 3:29 PM

Tuesday November 16th, 2010

Loehmann’s Files For Bankruptcy: Is Barneys Next?
Retail

Loehmann’s Files For Bankruptcy: Is Barneys Next?

Loehmann’s, the upscale discount retailer owned by the investment firm leg of Dubai’s Istithmar World, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection yesterday.

Istithmar, which also owns Barneys, bought Loehmann’s for $300 million in 2006.

To be clear, this doesn’t mean Loehmann’s is going out of business. But Istithmar has had major troubles making money off of the retailer, which mostly sells remnants of Barneys’ warehouse sales. (I got my first designer bag–a cream Marc by Marc Jacobs hobo–there in 2006, actually.) Filing for Chapter 11 allows Istithmar to spend significantly less cash restructuring the company.

Now here’s the real question: Is Barneys next?

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Published at 12:13 PM

Thursday October 28th, 2010

People Spend More Money at Opening Ceremony Than Brooks Brothers
Retail

People Spend More Money at Opening Ceremony Than Brooks Brothers

If you thought Opening Ceremony was keeping afloat by selling loads of those $30 tote bags, think again. On average, customers spend more at the global chainlet’s New York stores than they do at preppy staple Brooks Brothers.

That’s according to data released by Mint.com, a personal finance portal. The data they’ve collected is from credit card transactions put through by their members.

At Opening Ceremony in New York, the average spend is $243.75. At Brooks Brothers in New York, the average spend is $180.93.

What’s more, the average spend varies quite a lot when you look at the same store in different cities. For example, at Zara in New York, the average spend is $92.03. At Zara in Miami, it’s $68.05. Interesting. Here’s a list of stores all over the country and the amount of money shoppers spend, on average, when visiting them:

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Published at 6:00 PM

Monday August 23rd, 2010

Barneys Names Former Gucci Head Mark Lee CEO
The Business

Barneys Names Former Gucci Head Mark Lee CEO

Today, Dubai investment firm Istithmar World officially announced that former Gucci head Mark Lee would assume the role of CEO at Barneys New York.

Former Barneys CEO Howard Socol left the company in 2008 after rumored frustrations with the store’s new owners. Istithmar acquired Barneys from Jones Apparel Group in 2007 for about $900 million.

The recession worsened Barneys’ already shaky financial situation, and soon enough analysts began talking possible bankruptcy. Barneys previously filed for bankruptcy in the mid-’90s after a period of over-expansion.

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Published at 12:44 PM