Bernard Arnault

Photo: Getty

Marc Jacobs is not going to Dior.

A source close to the situation tells us Jacobs “declined” the job for good sometime in “mid November.” LVMH reportedly approached Jacobs about taking the reigns at Dior in July after Bill Gaytten showed his critically-slammed couture collection for the house. Jacobs seemed a shoe-in for the job. But negotiations between LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, Dior president Sidney Toledano and Jacobs fell apart over money and the reorganization of Jacobs’ team. According to a source, Jacobs wanted to bring his team from Vuitton to Dior and “transfer the aesthetic from one house to another” (which might explain the dramatic shift towards a more girly aesthetic in Jacobs’ spring collection for Vuitton).

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Photo: Getty

And the Dior saga drags on just a little longer.

Talks between Dior and Marc Jacobs have come to a halt, WWD is reporting. Jacobs had been the number one name to succeed Galliano at Dior; a deal seemed imminent. But as Jacobs was keen on taking his entire design team from Vuitton with him to Dior, and Phoebe Philo–the name floated as the one likely to take over for Jacobs at LVMH’s luxury linchpin–was keen on keeping on with her minimalist jam at Celine, it’s back to the drawing board. Alexander Wang (so apparently that rumor was true), Jason Wu and Raf Simons are among the candidates who have been approached, according to WWD.

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“High-ranking industry sources” have confirmed to The Daily that Marc Jacobs will replace John Galliano as creative director at Christian Dior.

A Marc Jacobs spokesperson could not be reached for comment as Marc Jacobs and Robert Duffy are both out of the office (The Daily speculates the two may be in Paris, negotiating the deal with Dior). However a Dior spokesperson was reached and they said, “I have no comment,” which we all know is code for “probs.”

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After months of speculation and rumors about who would replace John Galliano at Dior, the latest report from WWD has Marc Jacobs in talks to take over at the storied French house.

The news flies in the face of the most recent Dior rumors, which suggested that LVMH chair Bernard Arnault would install a lesser known designer at the helm. Of course, if Jacobs is appointed as creative director at Dior, he would vacate his post at Louis Vuitton, and a major reshuffling at LVMH would ensue. WWD is reporting that Phoebe Philo‘s massive success at Celine makes her the frontrunner to replace Jacobs at Louis Vuitton (not to fret, Philo-files, she will reportedly stay on as creative designer at Celine, too).

None of this is set in stone yet–neither Jacobs nor Dior have commented on the report and a source told WWD that “a deal with Jacobs is not assured, but that the American designer and Dior management are so far ‘excited’ about the prospect.”

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Bernard Arnault, rap muse? Never thought we’d write that sentence but it’s true: Soulja Boy has named his new mixtape the “Bernard Arnault EP” after the LVMH chairman.

It’s not the first time we’ve seen rap embrace fashion. Kanye West performs in Celine, raps about Phobe Philo and rattles off rhymes listing models only a fashion insider would recognize. And he’s reportedly showing his own line at New York Fashion Week this September. But Soulja Boy and Bernard Arnault? Never saw it coming.
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Despite earlier reports suggesting John Galliano would eventually be invited back to the helm of his namesake label, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault told the New York Times‘ Cathy Horyn that the disgraced designer is not welcome at LVMH.

“He will not be working for LVMH,” Arnault said after the Dior Homme show in Paris on Saturday. He also revealed that Galliano’s longtime assistant Bill Gaytten is taking over as the creative director of the namesake label. (Gaytten bowed at the Galliano menswear show yesterday.)

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Last night, we read the WSJ. profile on Anna Wintour with great interest. While there isn’t anything officially startling in the article, there are some nuggets that deserve a bit of chatter:

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The Richest People in Fashion: Forbes 2011 Rich List is out and LVMH owner Bernard Arnault came in at number four with a worth of a whopping £25.3 billion. Other fashion people to make the list were Francois Pinault, Phillip Green, and Giorgio Armani. {Vogue UK}

More Madewell for Alexa Chung: The it-girl’s second collection for the brand will hit stores next fall. For now, you can get your Alexa Chung dose on Madewell’s website where starting Monday, she will model pieces from the brand styled with her own personal items. {Elle}

Neiman Marcus Gets Digital: The department store launched its own fashion, beauty, and lifestyle blog, NMdaily. It will give shoppers a behind the scenes look into the fashion world. {NMdaily}

What’s Wrong With Fashion Today?: Long time fashion writer Colin McDowell says that fashion and couture are “adrift and lost” today and yearns for the days of Diana Vreeland. {Business of Fashion}

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Manish Arora + Paco Rabanne: New Delhi-based designer Manish Arora is the new creative director of Paco Rabanne. {WWD, subscription required}

Kate Spade Hops Across the Pond: Kate Spade, whose creative director Deborah Lloyd is British, will set up its first permanent UK store later on this year. {Liberty London Girl}

LVMH Wants to Play Nice With Hermes Bernard Arnault says, again, that he wants to remain a “peaceful” investor in Hermes. Uhuh. {NY Times}

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Jean Paul Gaultier Jumps on the Androgyny Bandwagon: In JPG’s latest ad campaign, Karolina Kurkova goes in for a smooch with blonde bombshell Andrej Pejic, a male model (yes, male) known for his feminine look who walked in the designer’s menswear show rocking a dress. Huffington Post

Gaga’s Meat Dress For Your Doll: Japanese toy company Bandai enlisted a London College of Fashion student to create pint-sized versions of Lady Gaga’s most iconic get ups. The most difficult to construct? The infamous meat dress of course! Using Parma ham, the mini dress took the student two weeks to finish. Telegraph

Miuccia Prada Doesn’t Use a Computer: The designer also really likes China and is considering politics as a future career. WWD, subscription required.

Bryan Boy Isn’t the Only One Making Money: Susanna Lau of Style Bubble dishes on how she made her popular blog a viable business. Up and coming bloggers–take note. Business of Fashion

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Today, France’s stock-market regulator told the Hermes family that they could legally pool their holdings in order to fend off a takeover by LVMH. As we’re sure you’re aware, LVMH has bought 20.21% of Hermes’ shares over the last few months. Although the Hermes family has kept over 70% of the company private, they still fear a hostile takeover by the luxury conglomerate, which views Hermes as what could be the final jewel in its crown. (If LVMH gets a hold of at least 33% of Hermes’ shares, French law says that they must launch a bid for the rest of the shares, although there are exceptions to the rule.)

To create a separate holding company that controls over 50% of Hermes’ shares–and that will be immune to LVMH’s advances–the family brand needed to get permission from French regulators. The regulator has agreed to Hermes’ conditions, but it’s likely an association that defends minority shareholders–which in this case includes LVMH–will appeal the decision.

Despite this small victory, it’s looking more and more likely that LVMH will someday control Hermes.

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Carine Canned? Racked is reporting that Carine Roitfeld was fired from French Vogue, citing the EIC as the reason for the mag being blacklisted at Balenciaga and Bernard Arnault threatening to pull all LVMH ads from the next issue. “Basically, she was fired,” a source tells Racked. Quel scandale! Not sure if we buy it though. {Racked}

Royal Dress Update: HuffPo’s royal’s correspondent is reporting that while the odds have Bruce Oldfield to design Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, she’ll likely wear a lesser known British designer who has dressed all the Middleton women (sister Pippa and mother Carole included) over the years. {Huffington Post}

When We Have a Lesbian President, ALT Knows How She Should Dress: In her Sunday Times column, Maureen Down mused about whether we are ready for a gay commander in chief following the landmark vote to repeal “Don’t Ask Don’t Tell.” She consulted André Leon Talley who told her that he imagines a lesbian president “who looks like Julie Andrews and dresses to meet heads of state in ‘ankle-length skirts, grazing the Manolo Blahnik kitten heels.’ She would save her ‘butch trouser suit for weekends at Camp David and vacation hikes in Yellowstone. No plaid lumberjack shirts at any time.’” {NYT}

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