CFDA

Photo: Ondria Hardin via Ford

The CFDA’s new health initiative guidelines–which stipulate, among other things, that models be ID’d to show they are above 16 years of age–have been met, for the most part, with glowing support from the fashion industry. Or so it seems. Because despite the industry’s best intentions, actually following the new rules is a whole other ballgame.

Designers Tory Burch and Tommy Hilfiger both told the New York Times that models that are either too young or too thin are still being sent to them by casting agencies. Burch said she was concerned for some models who walked through her door during this season’s casting. “There is still an issue, and there is still a lot of work to be done,” she said. “There have been positive steps. But I see some girls coming in who are really emaciated. It is still a problem.”

Here’s the problem:

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Last night loads of leggy models–A-listers like Shalom Harlow, Doutzen Kroes, Coco Rocha and Crystal Renn among them–gathered at the Standard in the Meatpacking to sip free vodka drinks over loud music. At first glance, a typical fashion party.

Only it wasn’t. These models were gathered to celebrate the launch of the Model Alliance, a non-profit organization founded by Sara Ziff dedicated to “helping models in the American fashion industry organize for safe, fair, and healthy standards in their workplace.”

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Fashion week dates aren’t the only thing the CFDA has decided to move this year.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America, whose offices have been located on Broadway & 39th for over 15 years, have outgrown their Garment District digs and recently signed a lease on a new space about 38 blocks downtown (we’re neighbors!). The CFDA, in addition to supporting American designers, have been dedicated to the preservation of the Garment District and established programs like the CFDA Fashion Incubator (low-rent studio spaces for emerging designers in the Garment District) and a study called “Made in Midtown.” So, not surprisingly, their decision to move out has been met with some disapproval from designers who see it as a snub to them and the district they, too, would like to preserve.

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Photo: Victoria's Secret

Victoria’s Secret Launches a High End Line: As much as we all love neon pink panties and sequined bras, Victoria’s Secret has launched a higher-end line of lingerie which we could see grown-ups wearing.

Amy Winehouse’s Family Not Thrilled with JPG Couture: Though critics enjoyed Jean Paul Gaultier’s tribute to the late singer, her dad said it was in “bad taste.” Will a public apology follow?

Scott Schuman and Garance Dore Talk Integrity: We’re talking about their blogs, people. Here’s how the couple navigates the fine line of maintaining editorial integrity and making money.

CFDA Releases 2012 Model Health Initiative: And they mean it this time. Diane von Furstenberg is getting serious about the 16 and up rule after last year’s hoopla over then-15-year-old model Hailey Clauson.

Who’s Who in the Brazilian Fashion Scene: Brazil is contributing more to the fashion industry than just banging hot models. Pencils out–it’s time to take some notes.

Get to Know Model Myla Dalbesio: New Ford plus size model and performance artist Dalbesio is someone you’re going to want to know. We interviewed the rising star.

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Photo: Getty

CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg caused a stir last year when 15-year-old Hailey Clauson walked in the designer’s Fall 2011 show, going against the CFDA’s guideline that models must be at least 16 years of age. But don’t expect that to happen again this year. Or ever.

In a press release reiterating the CFDA’s recommended Health Initiative Guidelines, the designer has pledged that “any model walking in the Diane von Furstenberg runway will have shown i.d. prior to the show.” And she’s hoping other designers will follow suit: The CFDA’s guidelines are recommending that all models be i.d.’d before walking, and that designers should avoid models under the age of 18 working past midnight.

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The fashion week scheduling nightmare appears to finally be over, at least for now. September 2012 dates for New York and London have just been confirmed, officially, and both cities have agreed to move their dates earlier. New York Fashion Week will take place September 6-13 and London will follow from 14-18, according to a press release the CFDA and the BFC sent out this morning. WWD reports that Milan’s Fashion Shows will take place September 18 through 25 and Paris September 25 through October 2.

The news comes following more than three months of back and forth between the four fashion capitals after Milan set their September show dates to conflict directly with New York and London and then couldn’t be reasoned with, digging its heels further into the ground as the months wore on. The agreement they seem to have reached is the same one New York and London proposed back in November (which DVF referred to as “biting the bullet”). So then why has it taken this long to confirm?

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Photo: WWD

Given the record-breaking success of this year’s Alexander McQueen retrospective at the Met, museums would be smart to put more fashion in their halls. And if today’s piece in WWD on museums “getting fashionable” is any indication, they are. Harold Koda, curator in charge of The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, told the trade, “Clearly the critical as well as popular success of the McQueen show suggests that fashion design has a more secure place in the precincts of an art museum.”

While any museum would be hard-pressed to recreate the magic that was “Savage Beauty,” more fashion exhibits are popping up all over the world and several big ones are already on track to debut next year.

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Photo: Imaxtree

Thought the fashion month show scheduling nightmare was over? Nope, it just got way more complicated. France’s Chambre Syndicale has been weirdly quiet while New York, London, and Milan have been battling over show dates. Until now, that is. They just dropped a bomb that essentially pits New York against the rest of the fashion world.

If you’ll recall, the latest development seemed hopeful for a scheduling resolution: New York agreed to move its spring show dates back to September 6, 2012, and Milan and London agreed to a subsequent second Thursday of the month New York start date for the 2013 and 2014 seasons. But Milan had two conditions: They wanted New York to cut its fashion week by one day so that editors could make it to London’s menswear shows (which are usually eclipsed by the first day of Milan shows), and that all the cities–Paris included–had to agree.

Well, Paris doesn’t agree.

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Kardashians Setting Up Shop in Dallas: Say what you want about the Kardashian Krew, just don’t call them lazy. With Khloe’s hubby Lam-Lam now traded to the Mavericks, word is they’re already scoping out locations for a new DASH store in Dallas. Werk, girls, get that ka$h. {TMZ}

Gwyneth’s GOOP App Promotes Expensive Living: Always wondered where to get the best kelp smoothie in New York? Ya, me neither. But Gwyneth Paltrow now has an app for that. Her GOOP NYC app may only cost $3.99, but you’re guaranteed to spend thousands more if you actually follow in her perfectly aligned footsteps. {Gawker}

CFDA Names Winners’ Mentors: Mentors have been chosen for this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund honorees. Winner Joseph Altuzarra will be mentored by Calvin Klein prez and chief exec Tom Murry, Pamela Love gets Harry Winston’s Frédéric de Narp, and Creatures of the Wind designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters will work with Rag & Bone duo David Neville and Marcus Wainwright. Just in time for some holiday thank-you presents… Brownie points, people! {WWD}

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CFDA Agrees to Move S/S NYFW Dates: In the latest S/S Fashion Week scoop, the CFDA agreed to move NY Fashion Week to September 6-13, but won’t eliminate the second Thursday to allow for more men’s shows in London. It also agreed to revisit its scheduling after three years, instead of setting future dates in stone. No word yet from Italy. As Geri Halliwell famously said in the timelessly classic film Spice World, “have [they] not heard of compromisation?” {WWD}

Is Rudolph Cuter Than Karlie? Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer, which has aired multiple times annually since 1964, pulled in 1.6 million more viewers last week than this year’s Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. Maybe these stats will inspire VS to put some claymation models down the runway next year. Fingers crossed. {Washington Post}

Designers Design Their Ultimate Hunger Games Dress: Bella’s wedding dress – what?? InStyle asked 11 amazing designers – including The Blonds, Rachel Roy, and others – to sketch out their versions of Katniss’s fire dress for the upcoming The Hunger Games film. The results are seriously on fiya. {StyleCaster}

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The latest news in the ongoing spring 2013 fashion week scheduling conflict between the fashion capitals comes from Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, who have been the main instigators in this whole fiasco.

To recap: Milan consciously set their September 2012 fashion week schedule to overlap with New York and London because Labor Day forced New York to push the fashion weeks back a bit and Milan wasn’t down with that. Despite Vogue editors threatening to skip Milan and the CFDA’s attempts to reason with them, Milan stood their ground. A couple of weeks ago, the CFDA, with whom London has been in cahoots from the beginning, issued a proposal agreeing to move their dates back a week on the condition that Milan and Paris agree to the second-Thursday rule for the long term.

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Photo: Imaxtree

It looks like Milan is going to get its way in September 2012 and will be able to show its designers’ spring 2013 collections from September 19-25. Diane von Furstenberg had indicated last month that the CFDA would “bite the bullet” and switch dates, and now that appears to be the official plan, WWD is reporting.

New York and London will both agree to move its show dates back a week–New York will run from September 6-13 and London from September 14-18–with a few caveats.

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