Dior Homme Fall 2012: Modern Military
Long Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–If there’s ever consistency in Kris Van Assche’s work for Dior Homme, where he’s been the creative director since 2007, it’s that he often sticks to a singular idea and develops a collection around it. Last season’s “Less And More” collection, while delivering on the goods at retail, lacked the spark that’s central to the appeal of men’s designer fashion.
On Saturday afternoon at the Club de Tennis on the outskirts of Paris, Mr. Van Assche delivered a radically different collection called “A Soldier on My Own,” centered around military uniforms. This time the set of the show was a simple and straight-forward runway with white doors (replicas of the doors at Dior’s Avenue Montaigne headquarters) and charcoal wooden platforms instead of the multi-room presentation from last season.
Sticking to a muted palate of military olive greens and navys allowed Mr. Van Assche to apply more sportswear and casual clothing elements–like a long wool zippered parka coat–to the more tailored tradition of Dior.




