Last night’s season premiere of Mad Men took the show into the future: November 1964, to be exact. So, how much has changed since 1963? A lot. From the newer, brighter offices to Peggy’s peppy hairstyle and pearls, the look of the show has changed dramatically.

Let’s start with Don, Mad Men’s troubled hero. Last season he was the poster boy for success, perfect suits, perfect hair, perfect bone structure. That last bit may remain the same, but his style is in the dumps. Don’s opening look, the suit to define a season, was dark blue with a coordinating, diagonally striped tie in blue tones. Next to Roger’s gray three piece and Pete’s black suit, Don’s blue number read a little weak. And the tie read kooky. Not the luxe look we’ve come to expect from Mr. Draper.

Don spends the rest of the episode changing between similar suits and some red and blue long sleeved polo shirts that leave him looking haggard. Perhaps it’s the worry in Don’s face that is killing his glamor. (Or the darkness of his West Village apartment that creates a literal five o’clock shadow over everything.) We’re hoping that Don gets himself back together, no more hookers or yelling at clients; though “So well built, we can’t show you the second floor,” is among the greatest tag lines of all time.

But on to the ladies.