If you closed your eyes and wished for a dream fashion show, that’s what Tommy Hilfiger‘s women’s fall/winter collection was: a hushed fairyland of imported gray gravel, autumn ripe trees and a confidence you could feel upon entering the Park Avenue Armory.

It wasn’t only the sumptuous offerings for fall—precise military detailing, lush textures and literal equestrian accents in rich navy, caramel and the season’s most-pervasive hue, burgundy—it was the tasteful spectacle that was so moving. From the cavernous space to the soundtrack (Lana Del Rey and The Beatles for Hilfiger’s bow), the presentation felt like a veteran designer’s willing acquiescence to a new guard.

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