Who Should Design for the New Schiaparelli? Our Suggestions
Our list is a mix of rumored candidates, speculations and suggestions from other editors and designers, and some people we just think might be interesting.
Our list is a mix of rumored candidates, speculations and suggestions from other editors and designers, and some people we just think might be interesting.
Whoever said a revival would be easy? After what feels like a roller coaster few years for the relaunched Vionnet label, more changes could be on the way for the storied house. Vionnet‘s recently appointed creative directors Barbara and Lucia Croce are said to be “discussing their future” at the brand after coming into conflict Read more →
PARIS–Attending Rodolfo Paglialunga’s spring 2012 presentation for Vionnet was almost a transportative experience. The glamorous ’30-inspired dresses matched the posh setting–a mirrored salon on the Rue de Valois–and I almost forgot about the sweltering heat awaiting me on the Metro after the show.
The bias-cut silk evening dresses (remember Madeleine Vionnet invented the bias cut) that closed the show oozed elegance and were stand outs. A final look in sheer tulle with a silver starburst at the center elicited hushed “oohs” from the audience. Stars were a motif throughout the collection, appearing boldly across the bottom of day dresses and skirts, and more subtly on a gold wrap evening gown. A fitting theme for a line so suited to the red carpet. Madonna recently earned a spot on our best dressed list when she wore Vionnet to the Venice Film Festival (too bad her film didn’t fare as well).
“When a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too,” goes the famous quote by Madeleine Vionnet, the inventor of the bias cut. But a beautiful dress can make its wearer smile too, and Rodolfo Paglialunga’s fall collection for Vionnet should do just that for anyone lucky enough to wear one of his creations for the French label. (Increasingly, it’s celebrities on the red carpet who flash a smile in their Vionnets–remember that incredible little black dress Emma Watson wore on her Harry Potter press tour?)
For fall 2011, Vionnet presented its collection on stairs covered in a magic-eye-like pattern of lillies in black and white–a print found on several dresses in the collection, though in glorious technicolor. Electric blue was paired with bright orange, red with lavender. Loosely woven crochet skirts were paired with knit tops, belted with carefully folded obis. Quilted sleeves and a quilted wrap dress added to the textural mix, as did dresses and skirts in stripes of crochet knit alternating with sheer. And a shimmering electric blue lace dress with black paneling on the sides made me break out into a full on toothy grin.