Stefano Pilati

Reviews

YSL Spring 2012: A Confident Collection Unshaken By Rumors

PARIS–Every fashion season a few things are guaranteed: a model will fall, Anna Dello Russo will change outfits approximately 647,329 times, and a rumor will circulate that Stefano Pilati is out at YSL. This season was no exception. After the IHT’s Suzy Menkes implied in an article that Jil Sander designer Raf Simons might someday be headed for YSL, Twitter and then the blogosphere (yep, that’s us) buzzed with news that Simons was taking Pilati’s place at YSL. YSL subsequently (this is old hat to them now) issued a statement disclaiming the the report.

Last night, Pilati presented his spring 2012 collection for YSL through several ornate salons at the lavish Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. It was a strong, confident, collection–firmly grounded in YSL’s DNA, particularly in the jewel-toned color palette–and one that didn’t hint at a designer shaken by rumors, or worse, on his way out. These were clothes for a lady of means, one who is maybe a little bored with her fancy life and who might be nasty to her waiter. She keeps her hair in a tight, low bun, cradled by a gold clip, and never lets her hair down. Her clothes are structured, especially in the shoulders, and voluminous; her pants are unforgivingly straight and skinny; and her skirts are stiff and flared, except, of course, when they’re to the floor, paisley printed, and paired with a simple white blouse.

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Breaking: Raf Simons Reportedly Taking Over at Yves Saint Laurent

The New York Times‘ Suzy Menkes review of Raf Simons’ spring 2012 show for Jil Sander opens with a startling piece of news: that the designer is set to take the reins at Yves Saint Laurent, replacing Stefano Pilati as head designer.

The news is doubly surprising since Pilati’s dismissal has not yet been announced, although the designer is reportedly hard to work with and rumors about his ousting have been swirling for quite some time now. In February we reported that Pilati was rumored to be out–and named Raf Simons as a front runner to replace him.

While nothing has been confirmed by either Simons or Yves Saint Laurent, the fact that this rumor is coming from Suzy Menkes, who has been covering the industry for the paper of record for years, means it’s likely true. At the very least, it would seem that the designer, who Menkes says, “certainly has earned an audition for that position,” is in talks with the brand.

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Campaigns

Ranking the Fall 2011 Ads, Part 2

Since our last roundup of Fall 2011 ads, some of the biggest campaigns have been released. From Chanel’s cats to Balenciaga’s church-going models, these ads are decidedly thematic.

That being said, not all are successful. Most have the guts to get consumers into the stores, but some fall short and enter into parody territory. Click through and see for yourself.

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Kate Moss

Check Out Terry Richardson’s Photos from Kate Moss’ Wedding: Jude Law, Paul McCartney, Carine Roitfeld and More

This looks like the most fun wedding reception ever. It probably was. Unofficial Mosstock photog Terry Richardson has been posting pics from last weekend’s Kate Moss/Jamie Hince festivities on his blog all morning. They are so casual and unprofessional-looking, like he’s just some dude uploading pics from someone’s wedding onto Facebook except the bride is a supermodel all the guests are beautiful and famous.

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Jaimie Hince Wed Kate Moss in YSL

YSL has confirmed the rumor that Hince and his “best man” Alison Mosshart of The Kills are wearing designs by the label’s creative director Stefano Pilati at Hince’s wedding to Kate Moss, which is taking place as we write this.

Pilati has also designed the groom’s wardrobe for the rest of the wedding festivities.

We’re excited to see Pilati’s take on the classic tux for the scruffy rocker.

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Menswear

Yves Saint Laurent Men’s Spring 2012: An Elegant American in Paris

Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–When I arrived at the YSL menswear show, which took place in an intimate loft near the Jardin du Palais Royal, I found basketball star Dwyane Wade already sitting in the front row section, right off of the stage’s exit.

“This is my first time at a Paris show and today I am only seeing YSL and Givenchy,” he said when I asked if he is doing a round of shows this weekend. “These clothes are elegant but in a subtle way and not loud,” he responded when I enquired if he wears YSL on a regular basis.

Wade was wearing an ice blue mixed cotton single-breasted suit, a white cotton shirt, a dark blue silk linen scarf tied around his neck and white leather high tops embroidered with a red, white, and blue YSL logo. More than anyone so far that I’d seen at the Paris shows, Wade convey that touch of French elegance: calculated. but always giving an air of non-chalance.

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  • Long Nguyen
  • Monday, Jun 27, 2011 / 10:31 AM
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Fashion Shows

YSL Cruise 2012: Hope and Anchors

With his brown, curly hair made golden by the sun, Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati looked as though he had just stepped off a yacht at yesterday’s Cruise 2012 show, which took place at the Haunch of Venison gallery in midtown Manhattan.

So did his girls, who were decked out in deck-worthy wares, from peasant blouses striped with ropes to navy blazers adorned with weighty anchors. The color palette was traditional: red, white, and blue with dashes of yellow, and we’d say pretty fresh. Along with the easy hair–a low ponytail at the nape of the neck made special with a slight rockabilly wave in the front–the clothes, from the leather pleated skirt to the tiny floral rompers, appeared comfortable. We’re also fond of Pilati’s frequent use of puffed sleeves–they make any outfit look pretty. And when it comes to the resort collections, that’s a good thing.

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Reviews

Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2011: How To Please Everyone

By Long Nguyen Monday, Mar 7, 2011 / 6:32 PM

From the front row at Yves Saint Laurent, a video of the final walk. Click through for images and a full review. Read more »

Hannah MacGibbon Out at Chloe? Plus, Dior Sources Say It’s Tisci…and Carine?

From the weekend emerged more crazy designer gossip.

According to Eric Wilson at the New York Times, Hannah MacGibbon is likely to be exiting Chloe after this season. The label, which is owned by Richemont, is said to have already interviewed candidates for the job. We hope this isn’t true, mostly because we really like MacGibbon‘s work.

But back to that other little situation. Sources inside the house of Dior tell Fashionista that the rumor within the company goes like this: Riccardo Tisci is most definitely in, and Carine Roitfeld will serve as the label’s stylist. Roitfeld was most recently linked to Hedi Slimane’s rumored takeover of YSL, although the Stefano Pilati-directed label’s expertly placed piece in the Times seems to have muffled those whispers.

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Latest Gossip From Paris: Tisci to Dior, Ackermann to Givenchy, Slimane to YSL

Clearly the only thing anyone in Paris is talking about this week is John Galliano, and who will replace him at Dior.

The latest gossip goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride. What’s more, if Ackermann is out of the running at Chanel, does that mean its Alber Elbaz’s when Karl purportedly retires in 2012?

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Fashion News Roundup

Fashion News Roundup: Pilati’s Not Leaving YSL, Katie Holmes At MaxMara in Milan, and Chanel and Colette Open a Pop-Up Shop

Pilati Isn’t Going Anywhere: YSL confirmed via Twitter today that the rumor that this would be Stefano Pilati’s last season at YSL is just that–a rumor. “From YSL HQ in Paris… Pilati busy working on the next collection. All the rumors unfounded – he is here to stay,” the tweet read. Rumors always come from somewhere, and this one’s been floating around for a while. But we’ve got to believe YSL, and hope Pilati blows us out of the water with his fall collection next week. {@Y_S_L}

Get a Glimpse of Natalie Portman’s Tutus: Six of the ethereal tutus Portman wore in Black Swan will be on display as part of the exhibit “Rodarte: States of Matter” at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago. {Hollywood Reporter}

Kelly Osbourne’s Material Girl Campaign is Here and We Like It: Osbourne is looking good as the new and improved face of Madonna and Lourdes’ line posed against the graffitied walls of grungy New York hot spots like Lit Lounge and Mars Bar. {The Cut}

Lily Cole’s True Passion is for Acting: The flame-haired model says that her days on the catwalk have been a blessing and a curse on her future career as a serious actress. Cole will star in Chekhov’s The Seagull in March at Cambridge University {Vogue UK}

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Rumor: What Will Carine Roitfeld Do Next? Launch Harper’s Bazaar in France? Or Head To YSL?

Some interesting gossip has emerged out of the Stefano Pilati-YSL rumor mill.

According to Hint mag, Stefano Pilati is indeed being ousted at YSL and will be replaced by Hedi Slimane (apparently Raf Simons and Olivier Theyskens were considered, as we have suggested before, but were reportedly put off by Pierre Berge’s “control-freakish ways”).

But more interestingly, Hint is reporting that Carine Roitfeld will consult for YSL with Slimane at the helm, if (and this is a big if) she doesn’t launch Harper’s Bazaar in France. Say wha!? It’s kind of surprising to hear Roitfeld’s name linked to another magazine so quickly following her departure from Vogue Paris. After news broke that Roitfeld was leaving the mag, she told Cathy Horyn at the Times that after 10 years as EIC at Vogue Paris she wanted to “do something different.” Staying in the glossy fashion world to launch a rival mag to Vogue Paris doesn’t seem so “different” but could it be true?

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