Rag & Bone's finally opening up their own store. It will be, of course, in New York's West Village at 104 Christopher St. according to WWD. Their store opening pretty much establishes the Village as the coolest outdoor mall in the country and probably the only one in which you can watch the designers behind the labels and the models who love them weave in and out of their own shops. The only concern is what happens to the West Village and Meatpacking district stores currently carrying David Neville and Marcus Wainwright's entire collection. Do they get to keep it? Will they get one-off pieces? Or will the boys simply keep everything to themselves? Either way, we can't wait to see what they do with their own space. Another fashion week opening to add to the list?
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Rag & Bone Perfect the Cargo Pant
My first assignment post-CFDAs was to visit the studio of winners Marcus Wainwright and David Neville. The occasion? Rag & Bone's Resort and Holiday collections. Unsurprisingly, there was plenty to love. The designers carried on with the wooly, layered military theme from Fall 2010, featuring lots of gorgeous knitted sweaters, exaggerated boyfriend blazers in plaid and tweed, a pair of tweed cargo sweatpants that looked too comfortable to resist, and a red silk work shirt that could be dressed up or down, much like the rest of the collection.
Rag and Bone Men's Fall 2011: "How to Dress Like an Englishman"
I don’t envy Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, the designers of Rag and Bone. What do you do when heritage, your thing, is the trend of the moment? And then isn’t. Last season, their approach was to out-heritage everyone, with masses of chambray and denim, in what felt like the closeted football player on Glee constantly targeting the gay kids for abuse, aka, the lady protesting a little too much. Their solution for next fall is to go British. “English gamekeepers, stalking in Scotland and the Duke of Windsor. Exemplary demonstration of how to dress like an Englishman” read their press materials.
Rag & Bone Women's Fall 2011: Superhero Snow Day
Over the past two years, there's been noticeable expansion at Rag & Bone. Along with more stand-alone stores, an e-commerce site, and an increasingly prominent presence at major department stores, the name itself has gotten bigger. After Fall 2010's perfect wintry collection, inspired by hunting gear and alpine ski slopes, the design team of David Neville and Marcus Wainwright won the CFDA award for menswear. And just-launched last week, their new advertising campaign features models snapping themselves in Rag & Bone looks. It's plastered all over New York City. Which brings us, one wordy paragraph later, to our point: With all this broadening, you'd except the runway collection to maybe become less focused. After all, Rag & Bone is partially-owned by Andrew Rosen, the CEO of Theory and current king of contemporary retail. Neville and Wainwright need to design clothes that not only look good, but also sell well.