One of the things you'll often hear a designer complain about is the number of seasons for which they have to design - Spring and Fall are the standards, but then there's Pre-Spring, Pre-Fall, Resort, Holiday, sometimes even Summer, and then those random capsule collections they might do that are probably driving each of them slowly insane, something Jane Mayle once touched upon when announcing the end of Mayle. But Stefano Pilati isn't fazed - he's just announced a new, annual collection he'll produce, Edition Soir, a 26-look evening wear collection topped off with matching accessories and shoes to be sold worldwide alongside the normal YSL Fall 08 range. He's even borrowed from Isaac Mizrahi, who once launched a made-to-alter collection a few years back, and designed each look to have interchangeable color/fabric/embroidery choices from which his customers can choose. It sounds like semi-couture, except it'll never see the runway and sounds entirely based on what the customer wants as opposed to the designer's potentially irrelevant vision. So, a boring line that might end up on pageant stages nationwide? Or a democratic line for the people, (kind of) by the people? Either way, we're sure Pilati's design assistants are working major overtime these days.
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Confirmed: Stefano Pilati Is Out at YSL
Following reports this weekend that Stefano Pilati would show his last collection for YSL this week, to be replaced by Hedi Slimane, comes confirmation from the house that Pilati is indeed, out. YSL released the following statement today: Yves Saint Laurent today announces the departure of Creative Director Stefano Pilati, who since 2004 has stood at the creative helm of the maison and has been instrumental in the rebuilding and repositioning of an iconic French luxury brand. Under Stefano’s guiding vision and artistic direction, the house has become a contemporary reference in high fashion. Stefano will show his final collection for Fall/Winter 2012-2013 womenswear on March 5, 2012 in Paris. In the coming weeks, the maison will announce a new Creative Director.
Rumor Mill: Stefano Pilati is Out at YSL?
Rumors swirl season upon season that Stefano Pilati is done at Yves Saint Laurent. Pilati replaced Tom Ford in the mid-aughts, and while some of his collections have been lauded, others have been slammed. What's more, Pilati is known for being a pain-in-the-rear. He's a party boy, and he doesn't like playing nice. Now the New York Post, via Fashion Wire Daily, reports that Spring 2011 might really, truly, be the end of the road for Pilati. But the collection was undeniably strong. And the shoes will certainly be a best-seller. So we think he still has more time. However, if Pilati is leaving, who will succeed him?
Report: Hedi Slimane To Replace Stefano Pilati at YSL
Another day, another report of a massive shakeup at a major fashion house. Hot on the heels of news that Raf Simons would leave Jil Sander (he showed his last collection for the label today in Milan)--and that JIl Sander would return to her eponymous label--come reports that Hedi Slimane will return to YSL, replacing Stefano Pilati as creative director. A source told the AFP "[Silmane] will become the new creative director at YSL," and that "the contract has been signed by both parties." According to the AFP, the appointment will be formalized during Paris Fashion Week, which starts Tuesday, February 28. WWD is also citing a "Paris source," as saying that Slimane "is poised to take over the design helm at YSL." PPR, the parent group of YSL, would not comment to WWD but the French Twittersphere seems to indicate that a confirmation from PPR is forthcoming.