This morning's Christopher Kane show opened quietly - the clothes, I mean. The internationally packed front row, including Jefferson Hack, Anna Piaggi and Vivienne Westwood, and its consequent flashbulbs weren't quite as calm. Kane's collection seemed to be moving in a menswear direction. He opened with blazers and oversize knit sweaters over slightly flouncy skirts before breaking out the layered sheer dresses with velvet stripes and sort of Elizabethan details. Jessica Stam wore an intricately bodiced pink party dress and the shearling motorcycle jacket Hanne layered over her ruffled party dress was perfect. Shoes were either velvet cage heels or flat patent oxfords. Make-up was minimal, the jewelry non-existent and the music sounded like the jungle. If Kane's giant $7000 paillette dresses could can sell out of Net-a-Porter in a day, we give these an hour. It might be the best collection so far.