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First Look: Rick Owens

"The thing about Rick is, it's so classic. You can buy anything from the collection and wear it forever," declared Heidi Mount pre-show at Ecole des Beaux-Artes. One might question that judgment when the clothes are styled a la Rick and presented in a deep dark room with feathered headdresses and leather bubble boots, but overall, she's right. Individually, his clothes are almost subtle, definitely delicate, and so brilliantly constructed. Which is why the cream of the fashion crop swamps his shows. Today's front row included Carine (of course, with Julia behind her), Ikram Goldman (Michelle Obama in Rick?!), Gareth Pugh, Julie Gilhart, Franca Sozzani, Kate Lanphear, Gloria Baume, Glenn O'Brien, Bill Cunningham and Morley Safer (whom I assume means Anna, though I didn't see her). The first rate front row matched the first rate - though noticeably white - cast: Raquel, Iris, Stam, Olga, Vlada R, Ali S, Karlie, Daiane, Sasha, Heidi, Hanne - most of whom showed up wearing at least one thing Rick. The futuristic, sometimes sparkly collection elicited actual hooting and hollering from the audience - the most excitement I've heard this season (aside from Chris Kane) until the Nina Ricci crowd actually broke into applause mid-show. More on that, coming up.

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