MILAN--Raf Simon's cited 1950s couture, Diane Arbus' tunic dresses, furniture designer Jacques Adnet, and Louise Dahl-Wolfe--one of my favorite fashion photographers--as inspiration for his Fall 2011 Jil Sander collection.
Those references are easy to spot, but my visceral reaction to the runway was a bit less high brow.
Jil Sander, who returned to her eponymous label only a season ago, has certainly gotten back into the swing of things. For fall 2013, she showed a beautifully-made, cohesive collection, that didn't even go near the kind of frills, bells and whistles other designers might employ. It was the kind of collection one might expect from the so-called queen of minimalism.
But minimalism doesn't mean boring--there were certainly thrills without the frills in this collection.