PARIS--Bigness isn’t a word I use all that often, but it’s one of the overarching themes for Fall 2011: exploding shearling, walls of fur, linings upon linings, cable knits on sweaters like ropes on freighters. Korean designer Juun.J has embraced this facet of the season with gusto, adding multiple jackets to a single look, letting their sleeves hang on to other sleeves. But giving in to "more" with a certain eloquence.
The effect could be hexapodol, but the insectile looks carried way more weight than any bug. This was a fascinating collection, and made me wonder why Junn.J doesn’t have more pickup in the US. There was fantastic tension in every look; the shearling interior and mohair exterior in one of his coat looked like they were attacking each other, straining for possession on the wearer’s body. Same with the leather motorcycle jacket, lined with yet more shearling. And again with a down jacket encased in synthetic, but balanced out with wool.
There were also some individual pieces that I can’t get out of my head: the first pinstripe jumpsuit I’ve ever seen, an oxford shirt with cashmere sleeves, and a science fiction-y grew wool sweater boasting the aforementioned extra pounds of wool.
All in all, big props.