Paris Men's Fashion Flash: Lacroix Relaunches, Willhelm Goes To the Jungle, Demeulemesteer Does Edward Scissorhands

PARIS--Lacroix is back, ladies and gentlemen--sans Christian, alas. When the house closed in 2009 after going through severe financial trouble, we mourned its baroque dementia. But today, Sacha Walkhoff, his assistant of 17 years, is in charge. “We are going to run the house very differently than we once did,” said Walkhoff, “we are currently developing lots of licenses, and are starting by relaunching Lacroix homme. We’ll wait a little longer to restart women.” The line, shown through a presentation at the Maria Luisa boutique themed around "migrating boys," was for elegant globetrotters: Suits with flowery seams and lining, spurts of color and button badges. “Lacroix, Chapter Two” as Walkhoff put it. Bernhard Willhelm did his usual nutty number: the Solomon de Rotschild private mansion in Paris was taken over and transformed into a gigantic performance that looked like Willy Wonka going off to the jungle.
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PARIS--Lacroix is back, ladies and gentlemen--sans

Bernhard Willhelm did his usual nutty number: the Solomon de Rotschild private mansion in Paris was taken over and transformed into a gigantic performance that looked like Willy Wonka going off to the jungle.

Although the clothes weren’t exactly the center of the show, we remember cello tape, fluo, spandex and face paint. Coming out of the show, we heard photographers complain that it was impossible to shoot the clothes. We pondered loud presentations: yea or nay? Sure, they’re fun, but are they a trick to distract you from the actual garments?

Ann Demeulemeester has a crush on Edward Scissorhands--or at least that what we concluded when we saw an army of boys with mad hair extensions and gardening-inspired gloves. The collection was dark yet soft: transparent silks, navies and oranges dominated the show. Deconstructed suits and waistcoats were punctuated by spots, dots, and lines. Fit for any Tim Burton fan.

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Christian Lacroix Men's Spring 2012: The Past is Past

PARIS--Needless to remind you that Christian left Lacroix in 2009 due to financial difficulties, (which were mainly because of its costly couture line). Last season, the house relaunched, led by Sacha Walckhoff, the founder’s assistant of 17 years, who had heavily contributed to just about every department of the brand. Now working only through licenses, Lacroix launched a menswear collection last season that were miles away from Christian’s once theatrical designs: wearable, elegant, the former’s designer’s loudness appeared only in discreet touches, on linings and collars. Last night in Lacroix’s flagship boutique in Paris’ left bank, Sacha presented a full-blow runway show, but a humble one nevertheless. The interior, currently going through renovations, had bare walls and floors, and felt like a chic squat party. On the outside, a simple sign hung stating "Lacroix: work in progress."

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Paris Men's Spring 2012: Dries Van Noten, Jean Paul Gaultier, Adam Kimmel, Ann Demeulemeester, Juun.J

Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS-- Dries Van Noten: Mr. Dries Van Noten changed the venue of his show from last season’s sumptuous space at the Musée Bourdelle to an industrial loft, shifting the focus of the collection from a refined and tailored wardrobe to things that are inherently sporty and urban. But he did so without abandoning this fall’s elegant suits and coats, like the Bordeaux wine silk suit worn with an untucked white shirt. The collection contrasted technology with tradition and sportswear with sartorial construction: this meant a mix of waterproof parkas and silk leggings. There was a yellow parka with the thinness of transparent nylon fabric, a navy hooded long coat worn with tropical wool pants and a tan linen jacket with black nylon stitching. A bonding technique was employed on the outside of parkas and trims of jackets, reinforcing the outlines of the rigid cutting patterns. The long navy trench belted at the waist, the tan-charcoal-brown striped coats, and the transparent yellow raincoat are sure to be best sellers come spring. Despite the heavy technical work involved in crafting each outfit, the show was light and airy.