Paris Men's Fashion Flash: Lacroix Relaunches, Willhelm Goes To the Jungle, Demeulemesteer Does Edward Scissorhands

PARIS--Lacroix is back, ladies and gentlemen--sans Christian, alas. When the house closed in 2009 after going through severe financial trouble, we mourned its baroque dementia. But today, Sacha Walkhoff, his assistant of 17 years, is in charge. “We are going to run the house very differently than we once did,” said Walkhoff, “we are currently developing lots of licenses, and are starting by relaunching Lacroix homme. We’ll wait a little longer to restart women.” The line, shown through a presentation at the Maria Luisa boutique themed around "migrating boys," was for elegant globetrotters: Suits with flowery seams and lining, spurts of color and button badges. “Lacroix, Chapter Two” as Walkhoff put it. Bernhard Willhelm did his usual nutty number: the Solomon de Rotschild private mansion in Paris was taken over and transformed into a gigantic performance that looked like Willy Wonka going off to the jungle.
Author:
Updated:
Original:

PARIS--Lacroix is back, ladies and gentlemen--sans

Bernhard Willhelm did his usual nutty number: the Solomon de Rotschild private mansion in Paris was taken over and transformed into a gigantic performance that looked like Willy Wonka going off to the jungle.

Although the clothes weren’t exactly the center of the show, we remember cello tape, fluo, spandex and face paint. Coming out of the show, we heard photographers complain that it was impossible to shoot the clothes. We pondered loud presentations: yea or nay? Sure, they’re fun, but are they a trick to distract you from the actual garments?

Ann Demeulemeester has a crush on Edward Scissorhands--or at least that what we concluded when we saw an army of boys with mad hair extensions and gardening-inspired gloves. The collection was dark yet soft: transparent silks, navies and oranges dominated the show. Deconstructed suits and waistcoats were punctuated by spots, dots, and lines. Fit for any Tim Burton fan.

Related Stories

Style

Christian Lacroix Men's Spring 2012: The Past is Past

PARIS--Needless to remind you that Christian left Lacroix in 2009 due to financial difficulties, (which were mainly because of its costly couture line). Last season, the house relaunched, led by Sacha Walckhoff, the founder’s assistant of 17 years, who had heavily contributed to just about every department of the brand. Now working only through licenses, Lacroix launched a menswear collection last season that were miles away from Christian’s once theatrical designs: wearable, elegant, the former’s designer’s loudness appeared only in discreet touches, on linings and collars. Last night in Lacroix’s flagship boutique in Paris’ left bank, Sacha presented a full-blow runway show, but a humble one nevertheless. The interior, currently going through renovations, had bare walls and floors, and felt like a chic squat party. On the outside, a simple sign hung stating "Lacroix: work in progress."

Style

Bernhard Willhelm Spring 2012: Um, It's Mexico?

For those of you who haven’t heard of the German designer, forget everything you expect from a fashion show, and be ready to welcome gaffer tape and coconuts into your sartorial lingo. Known for his taste for nu-rave and home appliances, Bernhard Willhelm held a presentation in a gallery by the Marais--or rather, a tiny sweatbox where beer and shots of tequila were generously handed out. It seemed like the show had been excitedly thrown together the night before: the décor consisted of roles of scotch tape and string hanging from the ceiling, holding together bits of painted cardboard and fruits. Girls marched down topless with painted nipples, in football jerseys converted into dresses. The models held giant paper tubes (like oversized, erm, cigarettes) and blew out flour onto everyone’s clothes, while strutting, dancing and sticking their tongues out.