Bespoken Fall 2011: Seagoing Sophisticate

One of the most pleasant surprises of last spring’s collections was Bespoken’s jaunty and yet natty collection of prim British suits, shirts, and the occasional croquet mallet. For A/W 2011, they’ve followed up with another exceptional venture, inspired by an old photo the boys (Bespoken is made is made up of two sets of handsome brothers: James, Sam and Liam Fayed; Paul and Carlos Goncalves) found depicting their great grandfather on a naval supply ship during World War II. The collection it inspired is sartorial naval-themed, replete with English culture, heritage and tailoring without ignoring modern needs. This is a heavy (but not bulky), refined, gorgeous collection, replete with harris tweeds, supportive cottons, raw edges and unstructured pieces. The boys went deep into the Turnbull archive (the brand is associated with Turnbull and Asser) to source their textures and wools. They turned to some of the oldest weavers and yarn suppliers in the UK for their materials, like JC Rennie, which has been providing yarn since 1728.
Author:
Updated:
Original:

One of the most pleasant surprises of last spring’s collections was

The result is true luxury and tradition. All that good British providence, without a hint of pretension or a snub to present.

Their oxford shirts, with barreled, and short collars, carry a tag that is autographed by 16 different people, representing the 16 pairs of hands each shirt passes through at the Turnbull factory. Their pullover and 4-pocket flannel shirts, highlights of the collection, look like denim from a distance, but are actually made from fine cotton flannel—though to the touch you would swear there was cashmere in there. Fitting with the seagoing sophisticate theme, they are also perfectly located at an intersection of elegance and casual.

They’ve taken a cavalry topcoat and added a thick woolen knit to the collar; also, there is a gorgeous pinstripe jacket, with a traditional ticket pocket, and their taken on a classic two-button grey flannel, which comes completely unstructured in weathered wool (pre-crinkled, if you will). The unstructured jackets, with their whimsical lining, just call out to you. Finally, their grey pea is a wicked throwback, with big brass buttons and sumptuous quilting strengthening the interior.

Bespoken is taking sure-footed steps in exactly the right directions; they’re doing heritage their way and producing smart, sophisticated apparel that reveals the young brand’s maturity with every detail.

I’d set sail with Bespoken any day.

Related Stories

Style

Bespoken, Ernest Alexander, and David Hart: Spring 2014

BESPOKEN Liam and Sam Fayed, the boys behind Bespoken, took their inspiration from photographer Ray Petri’s Buffalo Boy 1980s looks, which I too had

Style

J.Crew Men's Fall 2011: Masculine, But Also Sophisticated

Taking in Frank Muytjens’s fall 2011 collection for J.Crew, I came across an old friend, a fashion designer. She asked me what I thought and my answer went like this: “I like it. I mean, it’s smart…and boring, but it’s J.Crew, so it should be boring.” Her response was much more thoughtful, and more telling. She reminded me that Middle America and your average guy need some help dressing, and J. Crew is providing them the right kind of help. And she’s right. To this end, Muytjens has focused on separates in a workwear-dominated collection inspired by the Lewis Hine photographs of the Empire State Building’s construction. “Fabrics out of context,” the designer noted, “Chino, with a bit of denim,” he added, pointing to a handsome blue trouser that effectively blended the two textures.

Style

Jonathan Simkhai Fall 2011: Slick Simplicity

Given the architectural lines and graphic patterns present in up-and-comer Jonathan Simkhai's fall offerings, it's pretty fitting the New York designer chose to hold his presentation at the Zach Feuer Gallery in the heart of the Chelsea gallery district. Working with the same menswear-inspired aesthetic that's earned him many fans among the fashion flock, Simkhai mixed double-breasted camel blazers with skinny cranberry-colored pants and leather tees with side-buckled flannel mini-kilts. While certain elements of his collection felt a bit familiar--how many iterations of the chunky V-neck sweater layered atop a buttoned-all-the-way-up oxford have we seen now?--there were also plenty that seemed fresh and new.

Style

J. Mendel Fall 2011: The Fur Files

Whether you're a PETA sympathizer or collect vintage rabbit jackets by the dozen, you have to admit that designer Gilles Mendel knows his way around a fur coat. And there were plenty of bank-account-busting pieces Mendel's high-end clientele will swoon over this season, with the focus on tribal body art motifs. It’s an unlikely inspiration for Mendel, to be sure, but it came across loud and clear in the mink overcoats carefully shaved into diagonal lines and circular curves so as to mimic aboriginal tattoos. Many of the designer's famous gowns picked up on the tribal vibe as well, with sheer sleeves that bore Maori-looking beadwork. Every look was shown with a super-long silk scarf dripping with embellishment and fringe--very Stevie Nicks chic--and the lovely boots (of Mendel's own design!) made for nice finishing accents.