The bass at Doo.Ri’s fall show was so loud it rattled my esophagus, even out-thumping the platform combat boots that clamored down the runway. But bass and boots aside, the rest of Doo.Ri’s fall collection beat to her traditional track of quiet restraint. Doo.Ri Chung, the master of draping, jersey, and monochrome, deviated very little from her favorite formula this season. So when she did play with something new—a texture, a tweaked silhouette-- it made one thing very, very clear: The beauty of being a designer who works within fairly rigid parameters is not having to raise your voice to make your statement. For Chung, these whispers were new textures (leather piping, mesh insets, massive mohair fringe) and an exaggerated, lengthy silhouette, often with pockets of volume in the back. Sure, models are tall, but there’s something about an entirely monochrome look from turtleneck to toe, draped in outerwear with deep slashes, that just seemed to lengthen their bodies that much more. Everything—yes, everything—was sandstone, dark gray, or midnight blue, so if these are not your colors, Doo.Ri’s got little to offer you this season. But if they are, you’re in luck-- provided you, like Chung, don’t want to thump people over the head with your brightly-colored, bedazzled clothes...just maybe your combat boots instead.
**All photos: IMAXTREE