COPENHAGEN--The Kopenhagen Studio show, one of the standouts of Copenhagen fashion week, saw Kopenhagen Fur, the largest pelt auction house in the world, handpick nine emerging and established international fashion talents to experiment and (hopefully) innovate with their controversial material. First up was red carpet favorite J. Mendel, who drew on fur’s traditional evening wear status to produce a collection of prim and femme pieces that culminated in a floor length, tulle-skirted ballgown paired with a lustrous, outsized fur evening wrap.
Next off the mark was Mila Schön whose caramel suiting and black gathered-gossamer dresses lacked the ‘wow’ factor of J Mendel’s work, but showed some novel experimentation with texture. Shaved-back fur was treated into a honeycomb pattern, with large ridges left unshorn down arms and across hips, creating a dramatic, plume effect. Building on the trends we saw recently at the menswear shows, Gaspard Yurkievich utilized strong jewel and neon shades in his men’s presentation, which saw slim-lined trousers combine with layered shirting to produce a top-heavy silhouette. The conservative shape provided a solid foundation for experimentation with color and texture. Menswear was the strongest inspiration for Anne Valerie Hash, who used the opposing reference points of suiting and track wear to produce a cool girl look that was big on shirting, soft shaped trousers and, in particular, heavy fur vests with varying degrees of shagginess. Issa’s collection (yes, that's Kate Middleton's fave designer) was fit for a princess with shift shapes that dropped to floor length evening proportions in shades that were dramatic yet demure in sapphire, topaz and molten gold. Fur came in the form of capes and a loose gray vest. Living up to their rep as a Gaga favorite, On Aura Tout Vu’s showing was the most out there of the bunch, featuring, amongst other insanity, a teal, short furred body suit with protruding hip ridges, surrounded by a deconstructed peacock tail that was strongly reminiscent of Jean Paul Gaultier’s costuming work on The Fifth Element, and an outsized black fur opera coat with a foot long, crystal embellished airplane embedded into the back of the garment. The only Scandinavians repped in Kopenhagen’s edit, Soulland, presented a menswear collection that epitomized everything we expect from northern design--it was clean, minimal and highly pragmatic, featuring plenty of collarless coats and basic tees, front creased trousers and hoodies. Maria Buccellati combined low-fuss, high-glamor draping with a harder edged rock and roll aesthetic, and the results were compelling. The fur presented was highly textured, in diamond patches and horizontal blocks, with leather providing a contrast to the cuddly-soft surfaces. Finally, Lars Wellin’s work had a monochrome character, with blocks of grey on black on white zagging into magic eye patterns or else dispersing into Dalmatian-esque dots that looked like the final fruition of a Cruella DeVille wet dream. Which, depending on how you feel about fur, could be claimed of the entire nine designer outing as well.
Check out a sampling from each designer. All photos: Photographer: Copenhagen Fashion Week®