Given the architectural lines and graphic patterns present in up-and-comer Jonathan Simkhai's fall offerings, it's pretty fitting the New York designer chose to hold his presentation at the Zach Feuer Gallery in the heart of the Chelsea gallery district. Working with the same menswear-inspired aesthetic that's earned him many fans among the fashion flock, Simkhai mixed double-breasted camel blazers with skinny cranberry-colored pants and leather tees with side-buckled flannel mini-kilts. While certain elements of his collection felt a bit familiar--how many iterations of the chunky V-neck sweater layered atop a buttoned-all-the-way-up oxford have we seen now?--there were also plenty that seemed fresh and new.
A bomber jacket featuring different panels of patterned wool pieced into a herringbone pattern worked especially well. We also liked an ankle-length wrap dress topped with a popped lapel--it almost looked like a classic (if hugely lengthened) boy's blazer. Meanwhile, elements of transparency kept the collection from veering into overly buttoned-up territory--there was a sheer long-sleeved top worn with crimson tuxedo pants as well as a black minidress whose peekaboo insets created the illusion of a plunging neckline. Either, we noted, would make for a great Valentine's Day ensemble (only three days to go--eek!). All in all, this young talent clearly has a knack for the whole masculin/feminin thing, and goodness knows there's a huge audience for that particular look right now.