In a strategic move last month, Yigal Azrouël showed his men’s collection in Paris instead of New York. But it was yesterday’s women’s show that really told how much menswear has been on his mind:
For fall, Yigal’s girl is running with the boys, in tailored pants, tuxedo jackets, heeled loafers, and even bow ties. But that girl is doing so with a fistful of RIT dye, coloring the separates in cobalt, tangerine, emerald, and bubblegum. The result falls somewhere in a Venn diagram overlap of “girly menswear”, a sweet spot for smartly styled Hollywood ensembles and many a Teen Vogue editorial. Yes, Yigal abandoned some of his mainstays this season (putty color palettes, buttery leather jackets), but it’s hard to complain with the replacement-- masculine pieces in colors that pop, always well-tailored and usually cinched at the waist with a thin black belt.
There were, of course, a couple evening looks that took on a more feminine slant than the daywear. Both his emerald gown and his gold metallic one were incredibly elegant and columnar, reminiscent of that long, lean silhouette he strived for last season.
But for the most part, fall brought some pretty striking change for Yigal. His menswear might’ve been the only show to hit the road this season, but Yigal’s boyish, brightly colored womenswear was a true departure—and one that landed in solid territory.
**All photos: IMAXTREE