Last September Felipe Oliveira Baptista was made head designer at Lacoste, for his ergonomic tailoring and easy-to-wear elegance.
His own line, that he showed yesterday at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo, felt like a dark, high-end take on his sporty designs. A press release on each seat informed us that the theme of the collection was a "post-apocalyptic atmosphere short-circuited by vivid images of exotic amphibians." Indeed, a military efficiency punctuated with touches of rain forest fluroescents soon filled up the runway. The first look was an impeccable drop waist woolen black coat – didn’t we warn you to drop those belts an inch or two? This was followed by black wide pants paired with a navy see-through button-up shirt with a multicolored beaded collar.
The rest of the collection consisted of this same balance between ‘post-apocalyptic’ and ‘exotic’: strict, precise lines mixed with outlandish elements: jackets with teddy bear sleeves, bolero tops with tiny wings, woolen dress with silk layers poking out from underneath. The dominant shades, black, forest green and gray, were interspersed with splashes of bright bejeweled cuffs and necklines.
As usual, the designer experimented with contrasts in textures, weight and layers: high waist woolen trousers, mini dresses, reptile prints with paper thin muslin, all contributed to creating a ballet-like swiftness--but with a slight reptilian, almost alien, touch.
**All photos: Imaxtree.