PARIS--Last men’s fashion week, Gaspard Yurkievich was a no-show as his company was going through major restructuring. When we saw him a few weeks ago, he promised he’d make it up to us during Ready-to-Wear--and he did.
Yesterday afternoon, in a series of boudoirs at Christie’s, male and female models confidently marched down his catwalk in looks that confirmed the Yurkievich we know is back indeed. His collection held the same balance of retro lines, impeccable tailoring and shameless bling--demonstrating, as always, a perfect knowledge of fashion history (he teaches in several Parisian universities), and a flare for old school glamor. The first female model out wore a simple black wool trousers-suit, with wide pants, a short high waist suit jacket, and sky-high stilettos. Soon, the theme of green and black tartan, present throughout the collection, was introduced on a coat, and reappeared for both genders on capes, dresses, and patches on suits and fur jackets.
The boys, Gaspard’s usual mauvais garçons wore three-piece suits with blue detailing, spotted wool, and incorporated cheekier elements such as a blazer with corduroy pockets or colored lapels.
The girls were either femmes fatales in racer back silk dresses with mink collars or belts, or sporting garçonne looks in cropped shorts, creating an Eiffel Tower silhouette. Colorful tights, sparkly blue or with painted-on suspenders brightened the outfits.
Yurkievich shoes are always a hit amongst Parisiennes; this season, they consisted of slip-on snakeskin stilettos with tassels--that’s one thing we’re sure to see in cafés.
By now, Gaspard is a French institution. Not only does he lecture, give talks, but he also participates in frequent art exhibitions, such as the nomadic fashion-meets-art show Dysfashional. Love him or hate him, his style is stable and his pieces are wearable. Pas mal, non?
**All images: Imaxtree.