"It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be.... So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit to the values of the House of Dior." --An excerpt from Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano's speech at today's runway show, regarding the house's dismissal of John Galliano. Via WWD.
Subscribe to Our Newsletter
Dior Fall 2011: A Reflection
Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt. PARIS--When the lights dimmed on this bright sunny Friday afternoon inside a black tent erected on the courtyard of the Musée Rodin, there wasn’t the customary loud music and a model already posed at the end of the runway ready for action. Instead, Sidney Toledano, the CEO of Christian Dior, came on the stage to give a speech in French. With elegant but somber words that somehow felt more emotional in French than a translation would allow, Mr. Toledano summarized the “painful” events of the past few days that shook the fashion world in a rapid and unforeseen manner. As readers of this site are undoubtedly aware, Dior fired its designer John Galliano for anti-semetic remarks at a bar against a French couple and in an undated camera phone recording that surfaced last Monday in a London tabloid, sold for personal profit by an anonymous individual to the Sun tabloid. “The heart of the house of Dior, which beats remain unseen, is made up of its team and studios, of its seamtresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and vision of Monsieur Dior. Ce que vous allez voir maintenant, le résultat de leur immense travail. What you are seeing now, the result of their immense work.” With these words, Mr. Toledano yielded the stage--a backdrop reproduction of the grey wall offices at the Avenue Montaigne headquarters--and Karlie Kloss emerged from behind the faux salon doors wearing a large brown cape draping over her cropped leather jacket, purple sweater, and midnight blue velvet pants neatly tucked into thigh high leather boots. Ms. Kloss led the show with her cape flowing in the air. This time her moves were tempered by the soft and un-melodramatic music, her make-up nude rather than painted like some figurines. With 63 looks, the clothes certainly took center stage: there was Coco Rocha in a gray short sleeve double breasted flare jacket and a red print dress; Vlada Roslyakova in red tiered layers of ruffles; Lee Hye Jung in a khaki cotton layered dress; Iris Egbers in a sensible green plaid jacket over a short printed dress. Surely the men and women from the studios and ateliers who created these garments and who took a bow on stage at the end of the show should be proud of their accomplishments and their meticulous work in making these outfits. Yet despite the dazzling choices of clothes, designer fashion requires an imaginative narrative without which even the most elaborately constructed garments are just mere clothes that in a few months’ time we will forget. Over his 14 years at Dior, Mr. Galliano provides us with that precise plot season after season, like a bedtime story taking us away from the utter banality and mundane business of fashion.
Sidney Toledano Was Surprised That Dior's Sales Didn't Falter After John Galliano Was Fired
Fashion houses have been struggling lately with the notion of whether or not a label needs a marquee designer to be the face/DNA/personality of a brand. (See: The Simon Spurr fiasco). When Galliano was fired from Dior for his now-notorious anti-Semitic rant, many wondered what would become of the house in the wake of the loss of its charismatic artistic director. What happened is that Dior's sales increased. With Galliano's right-hand man Bill Gaytten standing in until a successor was named, Dior's revenues hit $1 billion in 2011 for the first time ever, according to the Financial Times. Sidney Toledano, the president and chief executive of Christian Dior was surprised.
Report: Marc Jacobs Turns Down Dior For Good (and So Did Everyone Else)
Marc Jacobs is not going to Dior. A source close to the situation tells us Jacobs "declined" the job for good sometime in "mid November." LVMH reportedly approached Jacobs about taking the reigns at Dior in July after Bill Gaytten showed his critically-slammed couture collection for the house. Jacobs seemed a shoe-in for the job. But negotiations between LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, Dior president Sidney Toledano and Jacobs fell apart over money and the reorganization of Jacobs' team. According to a source, Jacobs wanted to bring his team from Vuitton to Dior and "transfer the aesthetic from one house to another" (which might explain the dramatic shift towards a more girly aesthetic in Jacobs' spring collection for Vuitton).
Anna Wintour, Sidney Toledano, Alber Elbaz and More Weigh In on Raf Simons' Dior Debut
Raf Simons' first show for Dior was over a week ago--a veritable eternity in internet time--but that doesn't mean we're tired of hearing about it. Alina Cho, CNN's style reporter, was at the show and got some primo interviews with Raf himself, Marc Jacobs, Sidney Toledano, and Anna Wintour. We tuned into CNN International this morning to catch the spot and learned some new things like exactly how many flowers adorned the walls of the salons at the show (spoiler: one million!), what Anna thought of the collection, and why the heck Sidney Toledano et al took so long to choose a successor to Galliano. Read on for all the nuggets: