Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS--Often, a Yohji Yamamoto show is a serious discourse on the nature and the mechanics of fashion: cutting, draping, shapes and volumes. Sometimes it’s a complex illustration of fashion’s history. But at last night’s show, Mr. Yamamoto did none of that, even if there was a cage hoop skirt worn with a blood red wool and silk puffed sleeve coat, a red corset-wrapped dress, red hand-knit pantyhose, and red patent leather boots.
A long-sleeved, sheer chiffon, black and white eye pattern dress with a slide slit was worn over a layer of black fishnet and black combat boots. A white leaf-printed dress in black sheer chiffon was worn over white stockings. A black velvet coat was paired with a silk corset top, lace bodysuit, and a cut-out cage skirt. The rigid, circular frames of the skirt highlighted the juxtaposition of the hard and soft elements of this highly erotic collection, based on the notion of how a woman wears lingerie.
The hard-soft idea played out in the velvet fabric of a slit dress and a coat falling and draping over ridges of the cage skirt's skeleton. There were several outstanding large lapel wool overcoats toward the end of the show for customers at the stores, but great too was the red and black multiple-layered chiffon and tulle dress with a red bra--a look uncharacteristic of the designer’s signature.
It was great to see Mr. Yamamoto finally break his own taboo about revealing the physical female body. Over the years, his work influenced how we look at the shapes and silhouettes that defined the structure of clothes: He exaggerated the volume of clothes and used mostly plain wool or cotton fabrics with rarely any surface decorations, such as excessive beading, so not to divert the viewer’s attention from the shape of a particular coat or jacket or dress. This time, he allowed us to see a peek beyond the customary drapes and folds of cloth.
**All photos by IMAXTREE