PARIS--Bras, quiffs, and six-packs: three shows, three sartorial universes, three very different boys. One thing they have in common? We could happily wear most the collections ourselves.
Julius: Japanese label Julius is best known for his all black looks--but after rapidly introducing grey and off-white onto his catwalk Friday, it was clear he was ready to push things further. Little did we know that this would consist of S&M gender-bending action: after throwing in stereotypically female elements, skirts and capes, he sent a full on Turlington-esque trannie down the catwalk. Think lip-gloss, maxi skirt with front slit, man-bra and necklace. Are men ready for that?
Walter Von Beirendonck: One thing that is safe to say about Walter is that he masters the comedy element better than most--scroll through his websites and you’ll find naked photos of him covered in fake body hair or fish scales. Yet this season, his usual wilderness was a rather tame one: men in Menkes-esque quiffs came marching down in pastel suits ranging from aqua to salmon, fitted at the exception of this season’s mandatory baggy trousers. And no skirt to be seen – who would have thought?
Boris Bidjan Saberi: Sexier than Rick Owens, more leather-bound than Demeulemesteer; Boris Bidjan Saberi’s clothes have great potential to be the next neo-Goth king. Last night, he presented a collection a controlled collection, all in black and taupe, lose yet body conscious; this was punctuated by a South Park-esque hoody and a ripe six-pack. What do you think? Promising? Or yet another mini Rick Owens?