Fittings are the part of the process where the collection really comes alive for me. They give me a glimpse into what the final show will look like, fulfilling the designer’s vision and my own. Seeing the models in the looks with all of the final
The one challenge I come up against when designers want to do fittings a week before the show is if we fit too early we lose the chance of using the really great models. Commonly, the model agents will not confirm a model on a show until they know what all of the other options are for other shows at the same times as yours. In the past, Antonio and I have been up against such big shows as
Once a lineup is settled, "rotation" begins. "Rotation" is choosing which model will wear which look(s). Rotation for a one look per model show is much easier than it is for a show when each model will wear multiple looks. When choosing which look to put on a model, a stylist considers the status of the model (i.e. supermodel, next big thing, filler with great bod, etc.), body type and how the model’s look will “turn” an outfit. When I am doing rotation, I think about what kind of model I want in each look: masculine or feminine, curvy or boyish, blonde or brunette, etc. Putting a very masculine model in a very feminine look can give the clothes the extra push I sometimes feel they need. I love rotation because to me it’s like putting together a mad fashion puzzle.
As the casting director schedules the models to come in for the fittings, the stylist and the design team fit the models in the chosen outfits and confirm the looks. Confirming the looks encompasses choosing the final fits for the silhouettes, accessory philosophies, shoes, etc. While fittings are happening, the stylist’s assistant team and design team are taking notes for alterations and creating the dresser cards for the show. Pictures are taken of every detail and accessory so everything is visually documented. Explicit dresser cards are crucial for show day when a stylist and team are working with dressers who have never seen the collection before and have about an hour to get familiar with it.