A refreshing departure from the dressy, tailored prints we’ve been seeing this week, Phillip Lim showed a collection of breezy, sporty separates in clean shapes with little embellishment. The focal points of the collection were color, movement and accessories.
Kites served as Lim’s inspiration and that was evident in the way the clothes moved. Minimal, super thin blouses, jumpsuits and dresses were cut just-so with a little extra fabric on the collar or the sleeves that delicately swayed as the models walked. The effect was quite lovely. Also interesting-he almost managed to create the same light, floaty effect with dyed leathers later in the show.
Phillip is also showing more sophistication than he used to--something we saw in his not-so-girly fall collection. That doesn’t mean it was any less alluring or youthful. Besides the kite inspiration, most of the looks included youthful shades of sherbert orange, light pink and lavender, with black, white and neutrals sprinkled throughout.
Sporty accents, like stripes down the sides of thin silk trousers, culotte shorts, a clear anorak and a sweatshirt tied around the waist felt casual, yet smart and definitely wearable.
Lim has always had blips of minimalism and androgyny in his collections and this season he totally went with it. The result was a lot of great, smart pieces, but was some of it too minimal? Boring, even? Perhaps. But if anything, that created the perfect canvas for the shoes and handbags--all of which were truly covetable. We couldn’t stop drooling over a pair of baby blue heeled sandals with a fish scale effect, see-through peep toe pumps and some metallic silver heeled perfection, all of which were feminine but substantial enough to ground a collection that might otherwise float off into the sky.
**All photos via Imaxtree