MILAN--When Emporio Armani’s models marched down the runway wearing straw boater hats and menswear inspired black and white cuts, one word came to mind: Coco. Sure, that’s an obvious one, but it’s a risky bet to take when Chanel’s last couture collection opted for similar headpieces and a similar (and hallmark) color palette.
But this resemblance was fleeting. Soon the collection was spiced up, but discreetly: glitter slips poked out of dresses, sleeveless jackets were done in sequins, and dog collar necklaces were worn over the white shirts. Yet the clothes still maintained the clean-cut, menswear-inspired look--think blazers with cropped black trousers and white seams.
A couple of equally sleek cocktail dresses were also on show, in the same color combination--white with a black V-shaped hem, worn with a white sleeveless dinner jacket and strappy sandals. There was also a conscious reference to Pierre Cardin, we firmly believe, as dresses with wired, crinoline-like hems appeared, creating a floating hoop around the models’ knees, reminiscent of the French designer’s epic sci-fi silhouettes.
The cohesive show was a crisp and clean palette-cleanser after a print-filled season.
**All photos: Imaxtree