MILAN--Moving from the stereotype of ultra-sexy, vamp-like Italian women, Karl Lagerfeld offered a version of Milanese femininity closer to a Fellini film. Take Claudia Cardinale in 8 1/2: the softness of the 60s morphed with remnants of the 50s' womanly lines, bold but youthful.
The spring Fendi collection achieved a similar balance. Wide straight-waist jackets were paired with high waisted a-line skirts. Throw in some breezy striped cotton ensembles and floral appliqués, and it all made for fresh yet decisively feminine silhouettes.
The garments were anything but minimalist, brimming with subtle details--think embroided flowers with mirrors (as a nod to the 70s), and ruffles and pleats. The color palette mixed aqua and earth tones, chocolate tones with light and deep blues, and pistachio. On top of that, Lagerfeld added a good dose of masculine appropriations: a tie here and a buttoned-up white shirt there all winked at women’s liberation of the 60s.
The show ended with a black finale of embroided jumpsuits and sheer cocktail dresses; this reminded us of what Karl is best at: the perfect little black dress--here definitely Italian-style.
**All photos via Imaxtree