MILAN--Like Hermès, Gucci’s mission (or fate) is to forever reinvent horseback riding chic. This season, it did so by introducing a clear, precise palette: black, white, green, bling.
Like a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde collection, the line seemed split into two opposing personalities. The daywear consisted of masculine silhouettes, mainly composed of suits--cropped jackets, green geometric motifs, gold buttons, and side zips that flared out at the trousers’ otherwise straight ankles. As for nighttime, the decisively more girly looks made a straightforward reference to 1920s flappers: fringed hems, drop waists and loose sleeveless tops.
The retro allusion was modernized by injecting a dose of subversive sexiness: splits in the middle of the back revealed strips of skin, patches of transparency flashed body parts through a recurring use of organza, and the indulgent use of sequins was evident everywhere.
There was, quite literally, a golden thread throughout Gucci's collection--or rather, a golden chain. Thick plaited gold ran through the whole show, in the form of bag handles, embellishments, and buttons. Midway between Ab Fab and bondage, this modernized the picture perfect 1920s dresses. “I was inspired by Art Déco architecture but also the jewelry, its sheen,” said Frida Giannini, explaining her choice of pairing geometry with lots of shine.
The moral of the collection is: if you’re going to do bling in the middle of a recession, it’s fine as long as it looks like it belonged to your grandma.
**All photos via Imaxtree