MILAN--We love Raf Simons’ work for Jil Sander--and after seeing yesterday’s show, we're crushing on him even harder. And with today's crazy revelation that the designer could be taking over for Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent, all eyes are on Raf. As always, his spring 2012 collection for Jil Sander managed to simultaneously reference modernism, architecture, history, and art, whilst remaining understated and precise.
The show kicked off in an exploration of a Jil Sander staple--the plain white shirt dress. It looked almost nurse-like and came in cottons of contrasting thickness, as well as sheer versions.
Soon, the silhouettes veered towards the 1950s with their cinched waists and straight lines: high-necked looks in black with brooches pinned to the waist spoke to a reserved night-time elegance, complete with hats pinned to the head with veils, for a decisively retro look.
A lighter take on the monochrome palette were a series of white knitted jumpers with Picasso-esque faces embroidered into them. Other notable elements included all yellow ensembles, checkered motifs on cotton or tulle skirts, and a recurrent game of layers, with necklines and slips poking out.
The shoes are likely to be all the rage for the next season: chunky heels in white leather mesh with a patent white toe--like a Bauhaus sculpture.
And for the pièce de resistance, a hybrid between Raf’s iconic buttoned-up white shirt and a wedding dress: a wedding shirt that flared out to the floor and left the audience stunned.
**All photos: Imaxtree