This very promising up-and-comer showed a solid collection of expertly mixed fabrics in well-tailored silhouettes. We like.
LONDON--The Big Smoke is such an exciting place for fashion right now, and Jonathan Anderson is one of the reasons. The young designer showed his women's collection today at Somerset House, the unofficial headquarters of London Fashion Week. It was the first time he has showed women's separately from men's. And it was the right choice, as it gave Anderson more room to do less-androgynous pieces. Last season his girl was a grunge magpie, wearing Liberty prints and patchwork sweaters. This season, she's a tough '90s schoolgirl in mohair sweaters and work boots adorned with tufts of pink, blue or white fur.
On Tuesday I got a sneak peek into Jonathan Anderson's Shorditch workroom, where he was putting the final touches on his Spring 2011 collection, which he showed at the BFC tents on Wednesday. I've put together a little photo essay of what I saw, plus the final results.
Only Olivier Theyskens could take a brand like Theory--a bit dusty, a bit conventional--and turn it into the most sought-after label for the downtown cool girl. And his Spring 2012 collection certainly served to reiterate that point--and win over any late-comers. Showcased at art gallery 548 Center, in a room lined with tin foil, the collection was the perfect mix of wearable, cool staples--like a perfectly-fit basic knit tank--and more fashion-forward, directional pieces like a pair of iridescent green-and-gold pants. Speaking of pants, this season it was all about slouchy swagger: Waistbands sagged below the hip, while models tucked their hands into deep pockets. Miriam Zittel, a member of Theyskens' design team, told us that the idea for the new pant shape was inspired by Olivier himself. "That's how he wears his pants!" she said. "Slouchy, and with his butt hanging out kind of. You know, it's how cool people wear their pants." She points to the fabric above the waistband and explains, "See this is his underwear."