LONDON--The Big Smoke is such an exciting place for fashion right now, and Jonathan Anderson is one of the reasons.
The young designer showed his women's collection today at Somerset House, the unofficial headquarters of London Fashion Week. It was the first time he has showed women's separately from men's.
And it was the right choice, as it gave Anderson more room to do less-androgynous pieces. Last season his girl was a grunge magpie, wearing Liberty prints and patchwork sweaters. This season, she's a tough '90s schoolgirl in mohair sweaters and work boots adorned with tufts of pink, blue or white fur.
On Tuesday I got a sneak peek into Jonathan Anderson's Shorditch workroom, where he was putting the final touches on his Spring 2011 collection, which he showed at the BFC tents on Wednesday. I've put together a little photo essay of what I saw, plus the final results.
SAO PAULO--For Spring 2012 (yes, we're already thinking about spring in Sao Paulo), designer Tufi Duek infused his collection with tribal motifs: metal bands around models' arms and thighs framed quirky paneled mini dresses done in couch-upholstery-thick fabrics. Some dresses were printed and had flouncy skirts, while others were stark white and had cleaner shift-like silhouettes with contrast black seams to create chevron-esque patterns.
The collection verged on Pocahontas at times--models' hair was styled pin straight and parted down the middle and leggings were laced up in leather--but it never crossed the line into over-the-top schtick. And despite the thick heavy fabrics, the collection had an overall light, fresh feel. Heavy beaded tunic tops were rendered delicate, held together with dainty straps across the back.
Take a look: