PARIS--Peter Copping titled his spring 2012 collection for Nina Ricci "Zina" after the Russian artist Zina de Plagny, who collaborated with Ricci during the '30s and '40s on prints. Like many designers this season, Copping is looking back to what he described on his line sheets as "the Golden Age of couture." And it was easy to feel transported to that Golden Age at the show space--a beautiful salon on avenue Foch, high ornate ceilings, lots of gold, the whole nine yards. The front row--Arianne Phillips (who, according to WWD, is marking her return to full-time styling) next to Katie Grand next to Carine Roitfeld next to Anna Dello Russo--was golden, too.
Copping's interpretation of couture's golden age for Nina Ricci is extraordinarily delicate, Parisian and ladylike. There were high waisted floral print pencil skirts with boxy little jackets, flared skirts, tops done in guipire lace, and dainty cardigans. Every look was topped off with prim little woven cage hats.
Nina Ricci is known for incorporating lingerie details, and this season Copping's use of lingerie was decidedly unsubtle. Skirts were paired with exquisite bras and bandeau tops, and precious little silk knickers were worn unapologetically with nothing covering them. The lady got a bit tough at times, wearing biker jackets on occasion, including one that was cleverly done in cotton. But the lingerie touches were the thing, and the fact that Copping could put nearly full lingerie looks down the runway without it ever seeming un-ladylike is quite a feat.
**All photos via Imaxtree