Last night CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee SUNO hosted its first-ever runway show at Milk. Perhaps it was the CFDA recognition that encouraged the brand to mature in many ways, from a presentation to a show, from kooky mixed prints to ladylike complementary patterns.
Minutes before the show, I speculated with a friend about how well SUNO's intensely layered looks, complicated prints, and detailed accessories would translate to the five-second-glimpse of a look one gets at a fashion show... Not well, we decided. SUNO's designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty must have agreed with us, since the kooky art-teacher-on-vacation vibe that permeated SUNO shows of yore was replaced with nothing short of ladylike glamor.
SUNO's SS12 collection featured a subdued palette of white, black, Nantucket blue, and pastel yellow and lilac. The prints were shrunken to resemble options at a fancy wallpaper store. The opening looks four looks all played within a white/black/blue striped story, with tent tops draping gorgeously over button downs--a sure hit editorially.
Loose pants, peplums, exposed backs and the dickie all had their moments throughout the remainder of the show, but the interesting story was that of the cinched waist.
Wrap dresses in bird-prints and florals were lovely, but didn't that just happen last season at Miu Miu? The twisted up '40s hair didn't shy away from that reference. Nevertheless, the looks were simpler and much more wearable than some of SUNO's other offerings. To be a real contender for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, a label needs a dress to sell at Barney's and the wrap dresses are it.
Later on in the show the prints and colors diversified into oranges and metallic reds. The look that will get the most attention is the second to last: an orange tank with creme printed pants with a cutout detail on the hipbone. Impossible to wear underwear with, yes, but it was the introduction of sexiness into SUNO.