PARIS--A year ago, Haider Ackermann presented a collection that cautiously experimented with colors: deep purples and green silks punctuated his usually somber palette. “She is ready to come out of the shadow,” the designer had told us in regards to the Haider woman.
Today, she is definitely out in the limelight--and the collection was possibly his boldest one to day, marking a real turn in his career: the trademark deconstructed darkness blended with bright (relatively speaking) hues, and mismatching patterns.
Burgundy, rust, violet jumpsuits--silk, asymmetrical, loosely belted--set the tone. The derby flats worn with those also introduced a new casualness to the label.
The collection consisted mostly of menswear pieces: white blazers tucked into white trousers (a simple styling concept we’re likely to see picked up everywhere). The silhouettes then evolved into an organza taupe robe paired with blue silk trousers and a loose silver strappy top; a belted trench coat with rust trousers and plaid slippers.
The spirit of the season seemed to oscillate between sleek trim lines and layered, ample cuts like harem trousers with paper-thin knits, paired with a gold and blue blazer.
As for the old Ackermann, his emblematic lines made a brief appearance through a sheer ankle length skirt and a deconstructed leather jacket.
The finale consisted of a floor-length pleated skirt with a plunging V-cut.
Whomever thought Ackermann wasn’t ready to take over a major French house might have to give it a second thought.