Our Best Finds From Capsule’s Fall 2012 Menswear Trade Show

While Dries and Kim Jones were grabbing much of the attention in Paris last week, Capsule’s giant Fall 2012 menswear trade show took over New York. Capsule is a chance for buyers and journalists to review the designers whose resources don’t allow a presentation at fashion week or a media push. Fashion shows can feel a little tidy, even antiseptic, and trunk shows and previews can feel choreographed and corporate, but with 250 booths and even more merchants under one roof, Capsule is the closest NYC fashion comes to a bazaar. The experience can be a little overwhelming, and even if you take your time, it can be hard to walk through the massive space without reeling. I am by no means exempt from this feeling. But once I’d straightened myself out, and collected my thoughts (which were, even then, still divided into sartorial categories of shirting, trousers, outerwear and accessories), here were the items and designers who stood out:
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While

Handmade in Philadelphia, I coveted every single one of

Another gem from the world of handmade accessories is

Next fall, you can ditch the Barbour for Toronto-based heritage brand

John Gluckow of Strongarm Clothing and Supply Co. carries possibly the best military selection of any vintage dealer I’ve encountered. It would be difficult to find another 1940s poncho, in this kind of condition, anywhere else. Gluckow tells a story of a poncho from the same period that’s made of denim; it’s the White Whale of military vintage.

For me, the biggest issue at Capsule was the shirting. Very few people get it. I saw countless examples of great button-downs ruined by the addition of unnecessary bells and whistles, and worst of all the brand’s tags on the shirt pockets. Over and over, the same b.s.. For this reason, I was overjoyed to discover

Danish brand

Men and bags can be a difficult match; it’s the reason I’ve refused to carry anything except an army backpack for 5 years.

Exemplary shirting, the winter version:

East London’s

Paul Sevigny, the DJ and nightlife buddy/partner of Andre Saraiva, recently told the New York Times that when he goes to Paris, he visits the stores that carry Armorlux boxer briefs and buys every single pair they have. Good news for Mr. Sevigny: Armorlux is opening a store in NYC. Stripey basics for all!