Our Best Finds From Capsule’s Fall 2012 Menswear Trade Show

While Dries and Kim Jones were grabbing much of the attention in Paris last week, Capsule’s giant Fall 2012 menswear trade show took over New York. Capsule is a chance for buyers and journalists to review the designers whose resources don’t allow a presentation at fashion week or a media push. Fashion shows can feel a little tidy, even antiseptic, and trunk shows and previews can feel choreographed and corporate, but with 250 booths and even more merchants under one roof, Capsule is the closest NYC fashion comes to a bazaar. The experience can be a little overwhelming, and even if you take your time, it can be hard to walk through the massive space without reeling. I am by no means exempt from this feeling. But once I’d straightened myself out, and collected my thoughts (which were, even then, still divided into sartorial categories of shirting, trousers, outerwear and accessories), here were the items and designers who stood out:
Author:
Publish date:
Updated on

While

Handmade in Philadelphia, I coveted every single one of

Another gem from the world of handmade accessories is

Next fall, you can ditch the Barbour for Toronto-based heritage brand

John Gluckow of Strongarm Clothing and Supply Co. carries possibly the best military selection of any vintage dealer I’ve encountered. It would be difficult to find another 1940s poncho, in this kind of condition, anywhere else. Gluckow tells a story of a poncho from the same period that’s made of denim; it’s the White Whale of military vintage.

For me, the biggest issue at Capsule was the shirting. Very few people get it. I saw countless examples of great button-downs ruined by the addition of unnecessary bells and whistles, and worst of all the brand’s tags on the shirt pockets. Over and over, the same b.s.. For this reason, I was overjoyed to discover

Danish brand

Men and bags can be a difficult match; it’s the reason I’ve refused to carry anything except an army backpack for 5 years.

Exemplary shirting, the winter version:

East London’s

Paul Sevigny, the DJ and nightlife buddy/partner of Andre Saraiva, recently told the New York Times that when he goes to Paris, he visits the stores that carry Armorlux boxer briefs and buys every single pair they have. Good news for Mr. Sevigny: Armorlux is opening a store in NYC. Stripey basics for all!

Related Stories

Style

The Top 5 Street Style Trends from the Men's Shows and How To Steal Them

The traveling menswear circus kicked off last week in London for the city's inaugural men's fashion week, moved to Florence for prestigious menswear tradeshow Pitti Uomo, then on to Milan, and is currently wrapping up in Paris. If there's one thing we've learned from covering Pitti Uomo and perusing Tommy Ton's street style shots for GQ during the men's shows, it's that the boys love to preen and peacock outside the show venues just as much as the girls. But what we like about taking in men's street style is that there seems to be more of an emphasis on styling rather than the "it-items" we see proudly paraded around during the womenswear shows. It's a cuff rolled just-so with crazy colored socks showing underneath. Or a double-breasted blazer tailored to perfection with gloves hanging out of the breast pocket. Or sneakers and a Supreme hat worn with a more tailored look. More often than not, we get styling tips for ourselves.

Style

Céline Fall 2012: Intimate and Sporty

Celine is always one of the hottest tickets to score during Paris Fashion Week, no doubt about it--but this season, access to their mini-show was even more covetable. Because designer Phoebe Philo is due to give birth any day now, the house opted for a small presentation with only a handful of (very, very lucky) editors in attendance. The atmosphere was so cozy that famously tight-lipped Anna Wintour couldn't help but utter, "Can you please ensure all fashion shows are like this?", according to the Telegraph. But just because we weren't there, doesn't mean we can't drool over the collection, a continuation of Philo's signature minimalism, with a sporty-luxe slant for fall. Silhouettes were roomy, but streamlined (though Cathy Horyn called them "soupy") and the zipper details and rounded shoulders seemed like a nod to sportswear. The colorblocked and striped looks in blue, orange, white, tan and black were Philo at her best and we can't wait to see that long coat with the leather lapels start popping up in editorials soon.