MILAN--Alberta Ferretti is surely best loved for her dresses. And it's easy to see why: The designer manages to make gowns that are both striking and subtle at the same time, which is certainly no easy feat.
For Fall 2012, it was this expert dressmaking skill that the designer was clearly intent on showcasing. Gown after sumptuous gown walked the runway, all expertly crafted and ridiculously elegant but without being showy in the least. There were a number of gorgeous black frocks--some with swishy micro-pleats, others done up in leather and, still others embellished with black beads and sparkly fringe. Where there was color it was bold and rich (think: royal purple, bright red and sapphire) and the slinky gowns stood out all the more for it.
Many of the dresses had panels in contrasting fabrics: Leather with wool or silk with chiffon, which subtly contoured the body. One particularly artfully crafted red silk dress hugged the body like a second skin--but thanks to the well-placed seam lines the effect was utterly flattering.
Though her outwear and accessories are perhaps not as well-known, Ferretti clearly lavishes the same attention to detail and subtle, chic sensibility here. Fur was big on the runway, both literally and figuratively, and one of of our favorite looks was a long, almost iridescent blue fur vest, which was belted at the waist. Handbags were square and structured, and models carried them like clutches, with the straps hanging over their hands.
We were already excited to see what Ferretti had cooked up for Macy's as their next designer collaboration, but after seeing her Fall 2012 show, it's possible we're even more pumped.