Backstage before the show, designer Kimberly Ovitz warned us this collection would be "a lot darker" than past seasons, and indeed it was: The collection was almost entirely all-black, with a few grey, olive and brown looks thrown in for good measure.
Ovitz told us she was inspired by the figure of "the warrior," and that the collection was all about embodying the warrior's attributes: "Perseverance, vitality, vigor," she said. It's hard to say whether or not the clothing conveyed such intangible attributes, but we will say that the belts and necklaces made out of what looked like human hair did seem to send the message: "Don't fuck with me or I'll scalp you."
The shoes were also outfitted with hair ponytails at the back, though these seemed to recall Kung Fu ponytails (Man Repeller's Leandra Medine asked: "Is this an homage to Mulan?"). And actually we weren't too far off the mark: Ovitz tells us the whole inspiration for the collection began when she saw Kagemusha, a film by Karasawa. "I loved the costumes," she said. "And so it started with the samurai warrior and then I got so inspired by it that I kind of went through a...journey of warrior exploration."