Timo Weiland's runway shows take place at 9pm and I think that has a lot to do with the their overall vibe. After a long day of stuffy shows and presentations, people are ready to see their friends and party (or go home, in which case, you missed out). I happily forgot I was in Lincoln Center as soon Charlotte Free hit the runway in a flowy, printed floor-length dress and fitted leather jacket, with her disheveled pink hair (I wouldn't be surprised if the hair team hadn't touched it) and bizarre walk against a soundtrack of loud rock music.
The show was well-cast and well-styled, because she, and somehow every model, looked like kids from New York wearing their own clothes. "We really didn't draw inspiration from some very exotic place," Weiland said backstage before the show. "We brought it back to New York." Specifically, he referenced the post-punk era "when the new wave nostalgia was really coming and influencing music" and a time when a youth culture was "allowed to exist" in the heart of Manhattan. The '90s inspiration evolved into an exploration of outer space and "artists and creatives looking and pondering the unknown." This showed in some really awesome digital prints--something Weiland and Alan Eckstein have always done really well--like nebula blended with florals.
This collection wasn't just '90s grunge for their friends to wear. The whole thing still had a mature, elevated feel compared with past collections. The fit and proportions looked better than ever and luxurious furs were introduced, sponsored by Saga, who also partners with big names like Derek Lam and Alex Wang. Other collaborations included Tsubo on shoes and Lady Grey on jewelry.
Off the runway, an audience that included Spankrock, Waris Ahluwalia and Ally Hilfiger, blurred the lines between friends, fans and press/buyers. Several people gave the designers a standing ovation at the end--not that this collection didn't deserve one, it was an awesome show--but you could tell they have a loyal following and will continue to for seasons to come.
Click through to peep the full collection.