What I most love about Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s shows is the soundtrack. A few years ago, the Portuguese designer insisted on hip-hop, crunk and electro beats. This season, the models strutted down to the sound of Azealia Banks remixed with Favela booty beats. Quite a change from the increasing number of Goth-ish collections coming out of Paris this season.
The clothes were equally packed with sex appeal: the bold, graphic collection gave a fierce twist to Pierre Cardin-inspired designs. A grey raglan coat and its matching felt cap was contrasted with vinyl detailing; simple sheath dresses were punctuated by lamé motifs; neo-Mondrian dresses bore frontal slits or plunging crossover necklines.
As always, the designs had plenty of off-centered zippers and drop waists. This time, the designer’s love of prints was expressed in reductionist zebra print that ran throughout the collection like a golden thread. A heavy calfskin trench coat made an appearance, which made everyone wish Felipe would start designing accessories, too.
As for those out looking for next winter’s mini fashion statement, a series of knitted pullovers were all tucked on the left side. Now that’s an economical way to stay in fashion.