PARIS--Haider Ackermann knows something about passion. This much is clear from his dreamy fall 2012 collection, shown yesterday in the ornate salons of the Hôtel de Ville.
The show kicked off with subtly elongated silhouettes: tightly fitted maxiskirts, high waisted flared trousers and structured belts set the focus on a feminine waist and played with the trompe-l'oeil effect of endless legs. Peplum jackets with undulating folds around the waist, draped and folded leather coats, as well as cinched dresses added a touch of playfulness. The Ackermann sex appeal was there, of course, this season on leather skits with seductive slits up one thigh and on cleavage-baring deep v-necks, but at there was a sense of melancholy. It could be felt not only in the autumnal color palate (chocolate brown leather, burgundy felted wool, mauve and sage colored satin) but could be heard: Frank Sinatra's "Autumn Leaves," with those soaring, yearning violins, set the soundtrack
Maybe Ackermann's autumnal message--that everything has to end and yet begins again--warrants some reading into? Didn't he just receive a bouquet in his name at Dior HQ? If the rumor is true, the designer might have to leave a part of his former duties behind, for a fresh start at the LVMH owned brand. Until then, Haider Ackermann will keep on doing what he does best: creating sumptuous elegant clothes for the Tilda Swintons of the world.