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The 5 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 6

Facing fashion fatigue? Us too. However! The Mulleavys' medieval warrior princesses in bad-ass laser-cut heels march on. Tuesday critics lanced a few barbs (shades of Balenciaga, anyone?), but were surprisingly receptive to a broad array of world traveler-inspired styles fit for women on the go. Perhaps the biggest surprise was at Narciso Rodriguez, where the designer stepped out of his greige-y comfort zone and was loaded for a career-high performance. Find out which other shows had everyone buzzing on day 6.

Facing fashion fatigue? Us too. However! The Mulleavys’ medieval warrior princesses in bad-ass laser-cut heels march on. Tuesday critics lanced a few barbs (shades of Balenciaga, anyone?), but were surprisingly receptive to a broad array of world traveler-inspired styles fit for women on the go. Perhaps the biggest surprise was at Narciso Rodriguez, where the designer stepped out of his greige-y comfort zone and was lauded for a career-high performance. Find out which other shows had everyone buzzing on day 6.

Narciso Rodriguez Designer: Narciso Rodriguez

  • "From the triangular cleavage cutouts to the plunging V-necklines, Narciso Rodriguez made his point with pointed shapes." (The Associated Press}
  • "Narciso Rodriguez wowed us today with a masterful collection for Spring '13, concentrating on fluid shapes and bold colors." {FabSugar}
  • "When Narciso Rodriguez said his Spring 2013 show would start at 8 pm Tuesday night, he meant it. ... Perhaps that urgency stemmed from all the new statements Rodriguez had to make with this show." {fashionologie}
  • "The evolution was in decoration, as the designer used laminated wood beads to create abstract floral patterns, giving rich texture to streamlined shapes." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "Narciso Rodriguez started out as a minimalist designer 15 years ago, became known as a sublime colorist over the last several years and now, after showing his spring collection tonight, can henceforth be known simply as the master." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "Satisfying both a woman's wardrobe needs and a man's eye, that's the whole package. And that's why this was the most successful lineup of Rodriguez's career." {}
  • "What happens when the two-dimensional—that would be a plane of fabric—and the three-dimensional--that would be you--collide? That is, of course, the story of fashion, and claiming a sizeable chapter in this tale this season is Narciso Rodriguez." {}
  • "Rodriguez reduced his work back to its core: linear, geometric shapes and a shrewd eye for colour. From his languorous, breezy dresses to his unstructured, airy tailoring, there was a feeling of lightness and nonchalance--the ideal proposal for spring." { UK}
  • "A beautiful collection of spare silhouettes, exquisite cuts and colorful graphics that, while arty, were executed with a perfect sense of control." {WWD}

Oscar de la Renta Designer: Oscar de la Renta

  • "Latex and leather: That's what keeps Oscar de la Renta modern while maintaining his position as the godfather of uptown style." {The Associated Press}
  • "Between the opener and a lovely, embellished strapless gown (which Karlie Kloss also wore) to close out the show, we were treated to a menagerie of candy-colored day dressing, finished with girlie takes on texture." {FabSugar}
  • "Like a filmmaker or Renaissance oil painter, the mature years of de la Renta have been marked by a renewal with the avant-garde--so even though his clothes are the nearest thing there is to couture in America--they are imbued with an offbeat artistry. That’s why ... every second look as dissected by, dripped with or encircled by Russian gold brooches, earrings, mini belts and tassels in some too much is never enough chutzpah." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "Latex, leather, and lace--three materials that can easily conjure tawdry images when left to their own devices--were made impressively pretty in Oscar de la Renta's Spring 2013 collection." {fashionologie}
  • "Runway surprises ... included a passage of four sets of evening shorts, and latex in the form of a slick red T-shirt worn with a jaunty navy blazer and thigh-slit khaki skirt. None of which will be written about in the fashion history books, but you've got to admire the gentleman's moxie." {}
  • "'What’s the mood?' queried Oscar de la Renta backstage at his show, and laughed--'trying to make beautiful clothes!' Oscar, of course, is not a designer who frets about arcane inspiration or agonizes over capturing the zeitgeist in cloth; he just makes beautiful clothes, beautifully, to make his pan-generational clients look and feel as good as they can. And that is no small feat." {}
  • "The phrase 'timeless' gets thrown around a lot these days, but the designer has the credentials to prove it, and his collection today--really a full wardrobe for women in the mood for some high-octane glamour--shows that only with time and hard work does one receive the high regard that he and his work merits." { UK}
  • "De la Renta is no punk; he was just having a little fun with a collection that was otherwise purely pretty and wonderfully grand." {


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Rodarte Designers: Kate and Laura Mulleavy

  • "Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy veered away from the breezy feminine lines they showed in New York a year ago in favor of a darker post-goth look--fitting, perhaps, in this year of

    The Hunger Games." {AFP}

  • "The sisters Mulleavy have a knack for creating garments that are wholly transportative, whether the destination is mythical Medieval times, or a Jetsons-worthy future yet unrealized, and this season they rolled the 24-sided dice on a world that melds both, and you know what? We're totally game." {All The Rage/Los Angeles Times}
  • "Punk met the medieval princess on the catwalk at the Rodarte New York Fashion Week show on Tuesday." {The Associated Press}
  • "The kooky (a.k.a. genius) Mulleavy sisters delved deep into their Pandora's box of tricks this season, giving us a heady mix of Medieval meets motorbiker maven, looking as though they'd stepped out of an episode of Game of Thrones and into a dark and fantastical remake of Easy Rider." {Grazia Daily}
  • "exposure to the sophisticated world of high fashion has changed the sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Although there was still fine craftwork in guipure or brocade, the duo are now “on trend.” From the short, egg-shaped skirted dress familiar for many seasons to shoes that mirrored Balenciaga footwear, their show was probably more commercially savvy--but had lost its magic." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "The Rodarte collection this season was not for sitting around. The sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy packed a lot of energy into collages of guipure and jacquard with metal cages, built-in jewelry and panels of silk printed with an ivy trellis, on evening gowns and short strapless dresses." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "The Rodarte collection was surprisingly klutzy. Kate and Laura Mulleavy have worked with hard-edge materials in the past, but that wasn’t the problem. Despite a solid hand with leather pieces, like studded lace-up pants, many of their looks verged on Proenza Schouler’s style." {The New York Times}
  • "Let me count the ways that Rodarte’s spring collection was a mash-up of other top designers’ previous seasons: Balenciaga, Prada, Rochas, Erdem." {Speakeasy/The Wall Street Journal}
  • "Pure fashion fantasy? Not exactly. You needn't be a gamer, current or former, to appreciate silk blouses with graphic blocks of color or a T-shirt gown with an ivy print. All sorts of girls will be eager to role-play their way into this collection." {}
  • "God bless the maverick Mulleavy sisters; they certainly bring a uniquely idiosyncratic blend of crazy inventiveness and a perversely sophisticated loving-hands-at-home passion (think macramé, patchwork, quilting) to the New York collections that sets them apart from anything else to be seen here. This season their imaginations ran wild." {}
  • "It was a startling new direction packed with content and a silent request to look closely at the plentiful technique that went into each piece." { UK}
  • "For all their oh-gosh naïf mystique, Kate and Laura Mulleavy have some potent subversion, maybe even a little kink, coursing through their veins. For spring, the fantastical quality that defines their work, whether dark or romantic--in this case, both--featured an aggressive streak." {WWD}

Tory Burch Designer: Tory Burch

  • "Colorful travel-themed looks ... for the free-spirited woman on a quest for adventure." {AFP}
  • "Tory Burch has a way with basic American sportswear, livening it up with prints. (Golden wheat sheaves were a treat.)" {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "If you looked at Ms. Burch’s show as a whole, it was a bit like taking a road trip across America, which made for a great ride." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "She's corny as Kansas in August! Or, wait, she's… wheaty as Wyoming in May? Whatever she is--Manhattan by way of Valley Forge, Pa., actually--Tory Burch is an American girl. She announced as much with a collection that put the Great Plains on blast in the first looks, with a wheat-printed silk faille frock." {}
  • "Bravo, Tory Burch ... for brilliantly flying the flag for sparkling newness without forgetting that great clothes should feel joyful and uplifting without being entirely devoid of practicality." {}
  • "'American prep meets magpie traveler,' informed Tory Burch, who, during a preview, described a woman who spices up her classic wardrobe with special items picked up along her journeys. That sentiment came across with savvy panache in Burch’s spring collection." {WWD}

Vera Wang Designer: Vera Wang

  • "The clothes were quiet, delicate and lovely, sometimes requiring a trained eye to notice Wang’s nod to the Nehru collar or choli jacket." {The Associated Press}
  • "From courtly to courtesan, the latest collection from Vera Wang had a racy yet noble sensibility, a curvy and lacy ensemble that wandered back and forth from the salons of Louis XIV to the palaces of Rajasthan." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "By absorbing the white of India’s male wardrobe and cutting cotton into jackets and tunics, the designer created a canvas for color." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "Vera Wang brought her clothes back to more familiar ground on Tuesday, with spare sheaths glazed in Indian embroidery and her favorite slim shorts worn with floaty tops or long fitted vests." {The New York Times}
  • "Literal references weren't really Wang's focus, though. Rather, what she had to offer were textures, prints, and colors--and plenty of them. The results were sumptuous." {}
  • "The collection overall could be described as Indian in its opulence and rich palette, but that’s where the line is drawn. 'It’s not a sari, it’s not a sarong, and it’s not Bollywood,' Wang said. No, it’s Vera--and it was spectacular." {}
  • "In fashion as elsewhere in life, balance can be difficult to achieve. Vera Wang has been up-front about shaping her extremely artful natural aesthetic into commercially savvy clothes. In the collection she showed on Tuesday morning, Wang did so to near perfection." {WWD}