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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 1 of London Fashion Week

The giant... cluster that is the London Fashion Week grid for Sunday and Monday gives new definition to "packed schedule," but Saturday a few young gu

The giant... cluster that is the London Fashion Week grid for Sunday and Monday gives new definition to "packed schedule," but Saturday a few young guns got out ahead of the pack. From Dion Lee's scuba-chic looks direct from Down Under to newcomer Huishan Zhang's accomplished melding of East and West and Sister by Sibling's homage to Day-Glo and punk-feminism, these are the collections that had everyone--and we mean everyone--buzzing.

Dion Lee Designer: Dion Lee

  • "Had a sport luxe feel with minimal shapes and graphic lines. ... Already stocked in Net-a-porter, Browns and Matches (to name but a few) this young designer is certainly going places." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "The Australian wunderkind, showing in London for the second time, held the crowd of international editors on the edges of their benches as they leaned in for closer looks at his accomplished creations. The first thing to catch their eyes? That would be the leather--lots of it. Appearing in forensically fitted pencil skirts and jackets, it featured slashed-and-plaited panels that created vertebrae-like patterns down the backs of thighs and spines. But there was simplicity too." {}
  • "These designs were futuristic, too, but not in the sense that someone might wear them one day eons hence. They were futuristic in that they looked like clothes women will want to wear next spring." {}
  • "Clearly, his assured and polished resort collection, which he brought to New York earlier this year ... bolstered his desire to come back and try again in the U.K. Well, it worked, with Lee experimenting further with what he started in his resort collection, and then adding in some rather chic banded wrapping, gauzy sheerness, and some elegant plissé panels that fell down the front of his body-cleaving dresses." {}
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Huishan Zhang Designer: Huishan Zhang

  • "Newcomer Huishan Zhang delivered a sophisticated debut collection Saturday at London Fashion Week, impressing the crowd with his fresh take on traditional Chinese motifs." {The Associated Press}
  • "Prints ... depicting small mahjong tiles, Chinese characters and skiffs carrying three figures each, came from a more playful place. ‘I just told my graphic designer, 'Let’s do something very funny. What do you think your mum’s going to like? Let’s do mahjong! And all the Chinese families have only three people, so here are only three people on the boat: me and my mum and my dad.’ After a show like this, he’s sure to have more people clamouring for a spot in the boat." {}
  • "Mr. Zhang has a couture vision, showing skills in draping a wrap at the side of a slim dress or inserting chiffon at the neck. If his collection looked more sophisticated than the typical lively London shows, he proved his skill in dressmaking." {

    International Herald Tribune}

  • "Pundits and prognosticators have seen it as only a matter of time before a creative talent will emerge in London who represents a perfect East-West meld--just as Jason Wu, Joseph Altuzarra, and Phillip Lim do in New York. ... What Zhang showed in his first, much-anticipated runway presentation in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House was cocktailwear with a cross-cultural subtext that would be readable at several paces by his young Chinese peer group." {}
  • "He began with a black dress whose sleeves were merely delicate wisps to contrast the exquisite jewelled embellishment across the torso below, and continued with fitted dresses gathered gently at the small of the back to reveal an expanse of flesh. It was sexy yet demure." {}

Sister by Sibling Designers: Joe Bates, Sid Bryan, and Cozette McCreery

  • "Gosh, those Siblings lot don't half put on a good spread. Calling upon W London to host a bespoke afternoon tea, the design trio behind Sister by Sibling--Cozette McCreery, Joe Bates and Sid Bryan ... went one further than just feeding weary fashionistas, they showcased spring/summer 2013's inspirational prints on the French fancies themselves. That's dedication to a fashion-forward scone session that Team Telegraph can definitely get on board with." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "This collection was oozing with attitude and all about having fun." {}
  • "Some of the most impressive outfits were a black fine knit jumper covered in 3D handstitched flowers from Hawthorne & Heaney and pink dresses covered in 'flower beads' in a lime green and pink harlequin pattern--10,000 of them to be exact. Amazing!" {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "The team called the show 'Warrior in Woolworths,' inspired by the song of the 1970s band X-Ray Spex, and referred to what they called 'young old-lady outfits.' They included madcap fluffy headdresses with an icon named 'Poly Styrene,' just like the band’s lead singer. It was all rollicking good fun--with some enticing clothes." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "What the Siblings do is a perfect paradigm of the state of British fashion now: cheery, colorful, and well-made, with a sly touch of humorous subversion slipped in somewhere. To wit: You would not have to know the first thing about Poly Styrene and her seventies punk-feminism to fall for the white raffia-frilled top and tube skirt." {}
  • "The smiles (gasp!) throughout and rapturous applause to close--whoops and cheers, in fact--were testimony that here are three friends, three professionals, just doing what they know best." { UK}