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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week

"Smarten up" seemed to be the coaches' message Wednesday as the first big shows in Paris got underway. Enfant terrible Gareth Pugh was promoted to Varsity when he went medieval on critics--in a totally soigné contemporary way. Meanwhile, in the battle of moody romanticism between two great print houses, Dries van Noten and Rochas, Dries's flannel à la française scored a touchdown--and that's how the game was won.

"Smarten up" seemed to be the coaches' message Wednesday as the first big shows in

Gareth Pugh Designer: Gareth Pugh

  • "The raw shock-factor--Pugh's signature--was short-lived for once. It soon gave way to a series of softer, elegant and more mature looks in sweeping vermilion, black fringing and pale dove gray. ... Could Wednesday's show have been a coming of age for London's enfant terrible?" {

    Rochas Designer:Marco Zanini

    • "Rochas went for a look more classically feminine, whisking Paris to the American 1950s with retro bikinis in pastel mint or rose, their wide pants and pointed bra cups worn beneath short-sleeved capes in matching hues." {AFP}
    • "Sweetly nostalgic at times, but ultimately unfocused." {All The Rage/

      Los Angeles Times}

    • "Very pretty brocades that were surprisingly light. It was a good show, but if I were a fashion designer, I would most definitely not want to follow Dries …" {The Cut/New York Magazine}
    • "A whimsical collection filled with retro nostalgia--with a sportiff twist." {FabSugar}
    • "There was an optimistic sportiness in Marco Zanini's outing at Rochas on Wednesday that didn't simply come from the white wrestling boots he paired with the looks he sent down the runway." {fashionologie}
    • "Zanini can’t resist that gust of femininity. Each change in the silhouette, from mini to pencil to petticoat to sexy full-cut bathing suit, meant, ideally, a change in how a woman moves." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
    • "Zanini certainly indulged his oddball tendencies here--see the models' large silk sun visors made by French couture house Lemarié and the soft white leather wrestling boots. But if his quirkiness has sometimes threatened the relevance of his work, it had the opposite effect tonight." {}
    • "His 'joy of opulence' also expressed itself in the immensity of fabric—including Bucol’s magnificent lustrous satin, warp-printed with a design of ruby-red chrysanthemums--used for clothes that seem to invite the wearer to swish a sunray-pleated skirt, or drape a double-faced satin stole or a full evening coat, with the gesture of a worldly mannequin in a mid-century Irving Penn photograph. But Zanini’s clean lines and fresh spirit bring that platinum print effortlessly into the iPhoto age." (}
    • "It was all about playing the sporty American princess." { UK}
    • "The clothes were a montage of vintage references with the big statement made in proportion play. As a total look, it didn’t add up." {WWD}
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