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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week

See what the critics were ranting and raving about Bottega Veneta, Fendi, and Jil Sander!

Is Report Card still in too-much-is-never-enough Milan? As our international fashion marathon rolls on, the Mistress of Minimalism Jil Sander made a third coming at her namesake label and the most buzzed about designers on day 4 were those also feeling for less-is-more stealth luxury. At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi made a big bang with a streamlined collection based off first principles of geometry.

Bottega Veneta Designer: Tomas Maier

  • "The collection was complex, mixing sharply tailored cuts with softer pieces, with demure skirts down to the knee and high-waisted trousers." {AFP}
  • "Short, sweet and so very elegant. That pretty much sums up a show where everything seemed to fit together effortlessly, even though creative director Tomas Maier puts great effort into the meticulous detail." {The Associated Press}
  • "Bottega Veneta was one of the prettiest collections of floral dresses I have ever seen." {The Cut/

    New York Magazine}

  • "There is nothing especially profound in a mocha-colored dress with a graphic print of daisies that has been splashed with jet beads. But there is plenty of exquisite technique and dreamy artistry over which to marvel." {The Daily Beast/Newsweek}
  • "It was energising to see something new in Milan: no sportswear, no 1960s, no primary colours, no loud prints." {}
  • "One cannot fault Bottega Veneta's creative director Tomas Maier for lack of clarity in his approach." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "This was stealth wealth presented in the most tasteful and imaginative way." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "Those defined shoulders and rather big, almost cartoonish platform pumps said a lot, as did the neatness of the silhouette." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "All hail the dress! Tomas Maier lasered intense focus on the silhouette in his brilliant Bottega Veneta show today, cutting forties-style frocks with strong but not hard shoulders and slender, body-loving shapes." {}
  • "The house’s signature butterflies alighted in clusters on buckles of belts that defined trim waists, on the toes of the thick-heeled platform shoes, and on the flat satchel purses worn, in the fashion of the season, pinioned by a firm elbow to the side of the waist--symbols, perhaps, of a certain lightness of touch and of an undeniable prettiness." {}
  • "Tomas Maier doesn't think women should be pigeon-holed. Too right." { UK}
  • "Sweet and tough. The tension between the two intrigues many designers, including Tomas Maier, who for spring offered his take on the theme with an impressive collection for Bottega Veneta." {WWD}

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Fendi Designers: Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi

  • "Fendi hit Milan fashion week Saturday with a 'big bang explosion,' showing off a sleek summer/spring 2013 collection." {AFP}
  • "Fendi's latest summer collection has a geometric certainty." {The Associated Press}
  • "Haute celebrity, impeccable designer pedigree, and some often excellent clothes, shoes and bags - the spring/summer 2013 Fendi show in Milan had them all." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "This was a strong Fendi collection, with its shards or blocks of colour used to define the square side panels on structured skirts, the inside leg of a leather trouser, a collar or a waistband." {}
  • "Who can find fault with a collection that so seamlessly fuses an athletic sensibility with the brand's luxurious fur outerwear?" {FabSugar}
  • "Fendi appeared to enter a new dimension this weekend, staging an impressive runway display in a mighty new industrial show space and presenting a collection whose graphic patterns, Memphis color palette and sound baffle convex finish suggested both fashionable depth of field and fresh sense of purpose for the label." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "Both Mr. Lagerfeld’s designs and the bags by Silvia Venturini Fendi hit a high spot: the clothes for their graphic shapes, geometric lines and vivid colors; the accessories for their 3-D geometry and intense handwork." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "The Fendi show today began and ended with a big bang: the first a huge balloon popping to allow the models onto the catwalk; the last an explosive print that dissolved into an infinity of starlike sparkles. In between came a meditation on modernism courtesy of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, who never stop putting futuristic spins on the 87-year-old house's traditions." {}
  • "This was one of those upbeat, positive, faster-than-the-speed-of-light Fendi collections, an athletically powered processing of the notions of spatial geometry and dimensionality fused to the house’s traditional and time-honored artisanal skills." {}
  • "This was a pacey collection that seemed to gain itself plenty of admirers--just see how many people mobbed Karl backstage." {}
  • "A crystal clear vision of dynamic sportswear, not plain but crisp in its approachability, which did not come at the expense of craft." {WWD}

Jil Sander Designer: Jil Sander

  • "Jil Sander has returned, and it shows. No more dabbling into romantic or experimental styles, as happened when the label was in the creative hands of Raf Simons. It's back to minimalist basics for the 68-year-old German designer." {The Associated Press}
  • "It was pure Jil Sander in its clean minimalism, and it was incredibly strong." {The Cut/

    New York Magazine}

  • "After a decade away, Jil Sander returned to the label that bears her name with a 2013 spring collection that was tasteful, understated, beautifully proportioned but ultimately unremarkable. The collection was neither stunning nor disappointing, which is to say, it did not make an audacious attempt to soar." {The Daily Beast/Newsweek}
  • "She's back on the fashion roller-coaster: but so far, so in-control." {The Daily Telegraph}
  • "We ... witnessed Sander’s emotional, triumphant renaissance of her particular brand of understatement in the form of pristine precision of a Teutonic order." {}
  • "Nothing if not a perfectionist, Sander showed a collection that was precise and pretty." {The Independent}
  • "It was a fine effort and might have been considered a triumph of vision and will--if it had not been for the memory of the emotional collections created in her absence for the Jil Sander label by the designer Raf Simons." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "Maybe the most important thing to take away from her show on Saturday was how powerful the Jil Sander brand is. At the most basic level it has survived three different corporate owners in the past decade. But Ms. Sander’s minimalist concept has proven to be incredibly durable and also expansive." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "Jil. Is. Back." {Speakeasy/The Wall Street Journal}
  • "It worked, within the confines of proving that Jil Sander’s eyes are open to the calibrations of change that have been absorbed into a contemporary female executive’s way of life. What was missing in the moment was the frisson of a collection that swept the audience with it." {}
  • "The show ... easily put Sander back at the helm of clean and purposeful dressing the world over." { UK}
  • "It was a strong but imperfect déjà debut featuring some lovely clothes, some unresolved issues and a knockout finish." {WWD}